2022 Clos Naudin Vouvray Demi-Sec, Loire Valley

When there are a lot of Vourvray producers moving towards fully dry styles, this Demi-sec reminds you why Vouvray shouldn’t abandon its off-dry expressions. As usual, the Foreaus nail the balance, striking that point between residual sugar, acidity and phenolics. The fruit is pure and finely handled, blossoming in the mouth while retaining restraint. It’s not all on show upfront and it makes you want to go back and see what else is there: honey, nectarine, pineapple and lees-derived pastry. Drink 2024-2037.

93 points Rebecca Gibb MW Vinous, October 2024

Clos Naudin is one of the Loire Valley's great names, with Philippe Foreau continuing a family winemaking tradition that stretches back to 1923. Revered by collectors and sommeliers alike, the estate has become synonymous with beautifully balanced Chenin Blanc that captures both the generosity and remarkable longevity of Vouvray. Few producers have done more to showcase the ageing potential and versatility of the variety.

The vineyards sit on the famous tuffeau limestone soils of Vouvray, where Chenin Blanc thrives in the cool climate and long growing season of the central Loire. The Demi Sec style occupies a magical middle ground, carrying enough natural sweetness to create richness and texture while remaining wonderfully fresh and vibrant thanks to Chenin's piercing acidity.

The colour is a bright pale gold with youthful green reflections. Aromas of quince, baked apple and white peach rise from the glass alongside notes of honeysuckle, preserved lemon and wet stone. The palate is beautifully poised, balancing ripe orchard fruit and gentle honeyed richness with remarkable freshness and mineral tension. Flavours of pear, citrus and apricot unfold across a silky texture before a long finish that dances between sweetness and acidity.

Magnificent with roast pork and crackling, spicy Thai curries, blue cheese, roasted pumpkin with sage and hazelnuts or tarte tatin served slightly warm. While irresistible in its youth, this is a classic Vouvray built to evolve beautifully for twenty years or more.