2022 Clyde Park Single Block C Chardonnay, Geelong

From the oldest block on the property, planted in '79 and with an illustrious roll call of previous owners including the late Donlevy Fitzpatrick and Gary and Robyn Farr. Whole-bunch pressed; 80% new oak. A complex bouquet with its aromas of stone fruits, a little quince, honeysuckle and grilled hazelnuts. Powerful and mouth-filling, this is also beautifully delineated, finishing saline, taut and very long.

97 points Philip Rich, Halliday Wine Companion

Clyde Park sits in the Moorabool Valley north west of Geelong, where its steep vineyards overlook the Moorabool River. The estate was established by Gary Farr in the late 1970s before becoming Clyde Park, and today it is owned by Terry and Sue Jongebloed. Single Block C comes from one particular parcel rather than being blended across the property, giving a more detailed look at the site and showing why the Moorabool Valley has become such interesting Chardonnay country.

Block C sits within Clyde Park’s cool, exposed vineyard landscape, where elevation, winds from the Southern Ocean and the region’s distinctive limestone and clay influenced soils help Chardonnay retain acidity while developing flavour slowly. The 2022 vintage produced beautifully composed cool climate whites across Geelong, and here the emphasis is on concentration and texture without allowing oak or ripeness to take over.

Bright straw gold with white peach, nectarine and lemon followed by grapefruit and citrus blossom. Cashew, fresh almond and subtle toast add savoury complexity, with struck flint and a faint smoky note underneath. The palate is concentrated yet finely shaped, with stone fruit and citrus wrapped around a creamy texture before bright acidity pulls everything taut. Preserved lemon, toasted almond and mineral notes linger through a long, dry finish.

Grilled scallops with cauliflower and brown butter would sit beautifully beside its combination of richness and acidity. Roast snapper with fennel, crab ravioli, marron with lemon butter or charred corn with miso and sesame all have enough flavour to keep pace. There is serious Chardonnay here, so dinner can afford to put on its good clothes.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035.