2022 Crittenden Cri de Coeur Chardonnay, Mornington Peninsula

One of the very best Crittenden chardonnays I have tasted. It comes from the original home block vineyard which has been through gradual rejuvenation to more sustainable management. The fruit was whole bunch pressed to a mix of new and one-year-old French barriques for wild yeast fermentation. About half went through malo and there was occasional lees stirring to bring texture while retaining the fine delicate acidity. Aromas of light fig and stone fruit with a little lemon zest. The palate has a delightful purity with a dry savoury finish completing an excellent wine.

97 points Ray Jordan winepilot.com

50% went through malolactic fermentation in 40% new oak for 11 months. Zested lemons, cotton petals and crab apples. A hint of freesia and white nectarine skin. Supremely elegant and pretty. Oak glitters in white sandalwood and a smattering of sawdust. It has a mix of salt crystals, dried sunscreen and sticky icy pole melt. Like a day of merriment at the beach. The palate is linear with lingering acidity and finishing with white candlenut and creme fraiche quenelles. Its delicate and yet the palate flavours continue on as far as the horizon. Its pin point accuracy with its oak handling and allows the purity of perfectly picked fruit to shine in the spotlight. Wow this is stunning. A wonderful vintage for this superstar wine. Drink now or will cellar well for another decade. A perfect pairing for plump scallop nigiri and ginger.

96 points Shanteh Wale winepilot.com

This chardonnay is from the Crittenden home vineyard. I’m of the view that Crittenden’s wines, while always good, have become incrementally better over time, and most particularly in recent years. The Sous Voile releases show this most dramatically, but the 2022 Pinot Noir and this Chardonnay under the Cri de Coeur labels (as in, Cri de Coeur but not Cri de Coeur Sous Voile) are also seriously good wines. This is light, strict and tense – it’s effectively quartz-like – but it also shows ripe nectarine fruit, and lemongrass, and hay, and nougat, and bacon, and roasted cashew characters. Its elegance and flavour, strung on a taut line, the drawing in of the finish then flashed with chalk, though the flavour continues to pulse on. It’s a fantastic chardonnay.

95 points Campbell Mattinson winefront.com.au

Of all the chardonnays from Crittenden, this has a specific DNA. While there’s winemaking at play – the rich, sweet, cedary oak especially – there’s always a savoury overlay, almost a button-mushroom character. Tangy, juicy fruit rolled in spice, baked apples too; the fuller-bodied palate is fleshed out by nougat-lemon-curd lees and, of course, the oak. This needs time to open up and be served with food to see it at its best.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Crittenden Cri de Coeur Chardonnay from the Mornington Peninsula is a refined and elegant wine that showcases the region's cool climate and commitment to producing top-tier Chardonnay. Crittenden Estate, a family-owned winery established in 1982, has built a strong reputation for crafting wines that reflect both the unique terroir of the Mornington Peninsula and the winery’s dedication to sustainable and innovative winemaking practices. The Cri de Coeur Chardonnay is one of their flagship wines, designed to highlight the depth, freshness, and complexity of the grape while maintaining a sense of balance and elegance.

The winemaker, Rollo Crittenden, brings decades of experience to the estate and focuses on producing wines that express both purity and place. For the Cri de Coeur Chardonnay, the fruit is sourced from the estate’s best vineyards, where the cool maritime climate and clay-rich soils combine to produce grapes that retain natural acidity and develop intense, complex flavors. The wine is fermented in French oak barrels, with a portion undergoing malolactic fermentation to add richness and texture while preserving the freshness of the fruit.

In the glass, Crittenden Cri de Coeur Chardonnay has a bright, pale gold color with a hint of green, reflecting its youthful character and fresh acidity. The nose is expressive and elegant, offering aromas of citrus, particularly lemon and lime, alongside ripe stone fruits like peach and nectarine. Subtle notes of toasty oak, vanilla, and almond provide depth, while delicate floral nuances and a touch of minerality add further layers of complexity.

On the palate, the wine is medium-bodied with a smooth, creamy texture that’s perfectly balanced by crisp acidity. The citrus and stone fruit flavors are fresh and vibrant, with lemon, lime, and peach taking the lead, while the oak influence adds a subtle richness, contributing notes of vanilla and toasted almond. The wine’s acidity provides a refreshing backbone, ensuring that it remains lively and well-structured. The finish is clean and elegant, with lingering citrus and mineral notes that leave a satisfying aftertaste.

Crittenden Cri de Coeur Chardonnay is a versatile wine that pairs beautifully with a wide range of dishes. Its bright acidity and rich texture make it an excellent match for seafood, such as grilled fish, lobster, or prawns. It also pairs wonderfully with roasted poultry, creamy pastas, or soft cheeses like Brie and Camembert. Whether you're enjoying it on its own or alongside food, it’s a wine that balances richness with freshness, making it perfect for any occasion.