2022 Dal Zotto Col Fondo Prosecco, King Valley

As the label notes, this is made in the "traditional style of Italian farmers". In other words, expect an authentic, old-school style of sparkling with the second fermentation in the bottle and left undisgorged. Cloudy in colour and gentle in the prettiest scents of spring blossom and florals with citrus, green apple and pear. Flavour intensity and savouriness are dialled up on the palate with additional baked quince, citrus peel, preserved lemon and an almond kernel nuttiness tied to a soft, textural mouthfeel. Expands the prosecco repertoire with dazzling results.

95 points Special Value Jeni Port winecompanion.com.au

The Dal Zotto Col Fondo Prosecco from Victoria’s King Valley is a rustic, characterful sparkling that pays homage to the Dal Zotto family’s Italian roots and their pioneering role in bringing Prosecco to Australia. Otto Dal Zotto, who emigrated from Valdobbiadene in northern Italy, planted Australia’s first Prosecco vines in the late 1990s, and today the family is widely recognised as the leading name in Australian Prosecco. The Col Fondo style is a nod to tradition, where the wine undergoes secondary fermentation in bottle, leaving a natural sediment and producing a more textural, savoury sparkling compared to modern filtered versions.

The vineyards are planted on the cool slopes of the King Valley, where the elevated sites, clay-loam soils and alpine breezes ensure slow ripening and retention of bright acidity. Fruit is picked early for freshness, then bottled with residual yeast to complete fermentation, creating gentle bubbles and a cloudy, unfiltered appearance. This hands-off approach allows the true character of Glera, the Prosecco grape, to shine through with added complexity from the lees.

In the glass, the wine is pale straw with a natural haze. The nose is fragrant and complex, with aromas of green apple, lemon zest, pear and white flowers layered with notes of brioche, almond and savoury yeast. On the palate it is dry, lively and textural, with citrus and orchard fruits carried by a fine bead of bubbles and a chalky, saline edge. The finish is crisp, refreshing and slightly savoury, encouraging another sip.

Food pairings suit its Italian heritage: antipasto platters of prosciutto and olives, fried calamari, light seafood pasta, or vegetarian dishes like zucchini fritters, arancini or a simple caprese salad. The Col Fondo is best enjoyed young and fresh, but its lees character will evolve over a few years, bringing more nutty and bready complexity.