2022 Fetherston Estate Chardonnay, Yarra Valley

A stylish rendition, the elegantly expressed bouquet shows grapefruit, crunchy apple, rockmelon, nougat, and roasted hazelnut aromas, leading to a finely focused palate that's linear and persistent. Wonderfully structured by beautifully infused acidity, finishing splendidly long and engaging.

94 points Sam Kim Wineorbit

Whole-bunch pressed and matured in French oak (39% new). A bright yellow gold with green tinges. A nicely worked wine, revealing stone fruits, some grapefruit pith and a little struck match. Even better on the medium-bodied, chalky textured, balanced and gently saline palate.

94 points Philip Rich Halliday Wine Companion 

Crisp, lively, energetic start. Red apple, guava, peach and flint. Packed with zingy grapefruit flavour, plenty of gingery spice, almond nougat and cedar with a slightly warming finish. Clean-cut, inviting, engaging, reliable. Drink 2025-2030.

93 points Kasia Sobiesiak The Wine Front October 2025

Fetherston is the Yarra Valley project of Chris Lawrence, built on a clear idea of site first winemaking and a preference for detail over excess. Working with select vineyards across the valley, he focuses on balance, texture and purity, allowing each parcel to speak rather than pushing a heavy handed style. The Estate Chardonnay sits at the heart of the range, a step up in depth and precision while still carrying that signature restraint.

The 2022 vintage plays beautifully into this approach, a cooler, more measured season that favoured structure and finesse. Aromatics open with white peach and nectarine, layered with lemon zest and a touch of grapefruit. There is a subtle complexity building underneath, cashew, almond meal and a gentle struck match note, with oak sitting quietly in the background.

The palate is where it really comes together. Medium bodied with a fine, chalky texture, the fruit is carried by a line of fresh acidity that gives both shape and length. Stone fruit and citrus glide into a lightly savoury finish, where a flinty edge and gentle spice linger. It feels composed and complete, with a sense of energy that keeps it engaging from start to finish.

Winemaking is thoughtful and restrained, likely involving whole bunch pressing, natural or wild ferments and careful lees work, with oak used to build structure rather than dominate. The result is a Chardonnay that sits comfortably alongside some of the more refined examples from the Yarra, offering both immediate appeal and the ability to evolve.

This is a natural partner for a wide range of dishes. Grilled lobster with lemon butter, roast chicken with tarragon, or a pork loin with apple and fennel all work beautifully. It also handles richer seafood dishes with ease, scallops or crab where that textural element can really shine.

It will drink well now with a bit of air, but five to eight years in the cellar will bring more nutty, honeyed and savoury complexity while the acidity keeps everything fresh.