2022 G.D. Vajra Bricco delle Viole Barolo DOCG, Piedmont

A jeweled ruby color, the 2022 Barolo Bricco delle Viole saw one of the largest crop losses in the vintage, with roughly 20 to 30 percent of the fruit lost. Aromas of cherry cordial, framboise, preserved roses, and fresh lavender lead into a stunning palate that is pure, long, and beautifully balanced. As is often the case, this cuvée stands out in the range and may well be among the highlights of the vintage across the region. Drink 2026-2046.

98+ points Audrey Frick for Jeb Dunnuck

A very absorbing nose, showing flowers, passion fruit, sandalwood and crunchy red berries. The palate is medium- to full-bodied, with a detailed, precise tannin structure and tender fruit, finishing firm and focused. From one of the higher-altitude crus in Barolo. This needs two to three years to soften. Better from 2029.

96 points James Suckling

G.D. Vajra is one of those Barolo estates where tradition has never meant standing still. Aldo and Milena Vajra built the modern domaine from the 1970s, and today Giuseppe, Francesca and Isidoro work alongside them at Vergne, high above the village of Barolo. Bricco delle Viole is their historic flagship vineyard, bottled separately since 1971 and one of the most graceful expressions of Nebbiolo in the Vajra cellar.

The name translates as “hill of violets”, rather fitting for a vineyard celebrated for its perfume. Bricco delle Viole is among the highest sites in the commune of Barolo, reaching around 480 metres, with an east and southeast exposure and vines rooted in calcareous marl. Those cool, elevated conditions are particularly valuable in the warm, dry 2022 vintage, preserving fragrance and acidity while allowing Nebbiolo to ripen fully. This is Barolo built around finesse and aromatic detail rather than muscle.

Luminous garnet ruby, with red cherry, wild raspberry and redcurrant opening into violet and dried flowers. Blood orange, anise and subtle mint follow, joined by black tea, liquorice and a cool stony note. The palate is finely drawn and energetic, with pure red fruit carried by fresh acidity and beautifully detailed, chalky tannins. Cherry, citrus peel and tea leaf become increasingly savoury before a long, fragrant finish of spice, flowers and crushed stone.

Tajarin with porcini and brown butter belongs beside a bottle like this. Duck with chestnuts, veal agnolotti, grilled radicchio with hazelnuts or mushroom and Fontina polenta could all follow without overwhelming its perfume. Cellaring: Drink from 2030 to 2050+.