2022 Helen's Hill The Smuggler Reserve Pinot Noir, Yarra Valley

Made entirely from New Zealand's Abel, or 'gumboot', clone. Matured in French barriques (40% new). A light, bright ruby garnet. A restrained and fragrant nose offering scents of wild strawberries, orange zest, delicate rose petal and a little spice. Medium bodied and gently fleshy, both the tannins and finish are harmonious and long.

95 points Philip Rich winecompanion.com.au

Helen’s Hill The Smuggler Reserve Pinot Noir from the Yarra Valley is a powerful yet refined single vineyard wine that captures the spirit of adventure and quiet rebellion at the heart of Helen’s Hill. The “Smuggler” name pays homage to a historic local tale of an early settler smuggling vines into the region despite quarantine laws—an apt metaphor for a wine that isn’t afraid to push boundaries.

This reserve Pinot is crafted from the best parcels on the Helen’s Hill vineyard, which sits on the cooler, elevated eastern edge of the Yarra Valley. The site benefits from long ripening periods, volcanic soils, and a distinct microclimate that brings vibrancy, depth, and precision to the fruit. Only the finest barrels make the cut for The Smuggler, with minimal intervention winemaking allowing the site to shine.

In the glass, this Pinot Noir is intense and seductive. Aromas of dark cherry, blood plum, and black tea unfurl alongside hints of violets, undergrowth, and fine French oak spice. The palate is plush and layered with generous dark berry fruit, subtle clove and forest floor complexity, and a line of acidity that brings length and clarity. The tannins are silky but persistent, giving structure and poise to the wine’s generous frame.

This is a Pinot with ageing potential—cellar for up to ten years—or enjoy it now with rich duck dishes, charred lamb backstrap, or porcini mushroom pasta.