2022 Hewitson Old Garden Mourvedre, Barossa Valley

Dean Hewitson is the custodian of a remarkable mourvèdre vineyard planted in 1853. That blows my mind, for starters, and this is consistently one of my top wines from the region. There's lush doris plum, blueberry and raspberry pip notes, but it's the earthen, meaty bass line that grabs me every time. There's a deep bed of spice and hints of peppercorn, bresaola, olive tapenade, vanillin and cherry conserve, with a tang of ironstone to the silty tannins and plenty of persistence on the finish. Drink to 2040.

96 points Dave Brookes for Halliday Wine Companion, March 2026

Deep, dark colour with a good tint of purple; the bouquet very smoky/charry timbery—with a guaiacol-like nuance. The palate is full-bodied and firm and very drying, with strong preserved-plum, black pepper and tarry/charry flavours, and a powerful presence. A very concentrated wine, with bitumen and ironstone touches and ample drying tannins. It's loaded with character and individuality. Drink to 2037.

95 points Huon Hooke for The Real Review, November 2025

This exceptional vintage of very old vine Mourvèdre is beautifully composed while still reserved with impressive complexity wrapped up in a thick yet balanced blanket of oak. Mid weight with layers of new leather and blackberry, with a lick of sweet dark cherry laced with chocolate. Excellent density of tannins yet retains light on its feet through to a long, linear finish accented by meat and spice. Drink to 2042.

95 points Angus Hughson for Wine Pilot, April 2026

The Old Garden Vineyard, planted in the Barossa back in 1853, is home to the oldest Mourvèdre vines on the planet. Ungrafted and pre-phylloxera, the Koch family have tended to these precious gems for coming up on a couple of centuries. There are just eight rows of this treasure in existence. Vinification saw the use of 100% whole bunches and maturation was for a year and a half in new French oak barriques. Under cork. An opaque maroon, this release is very much in the savoury style, with aromas weaving through notes of animal skins, dried herbs, beef stock, chocolate, coffee grinds, earthy notes, bay leaves, soy and cocoa powder. Supple in texture with very fine tannins, there is a line of good acidity and the wine should provide pleasure over the next ten years. Drink to 2036.

93 points Ken Gargett for Wine Pilot, March 2026