2022 Hickinbotham Clarendon Brooks Road Shiraz, McLaren Vale

From the original contour planted 1971 vines; 20% whole bunches, 30% destemmed and berry sorted and 50% crushed; matured for seven months in 30% new French puncheons, the rest in one- to two-year-old oak, then racked to older French and Austrian 2500L foudre for 12 months. This is amply generous, with blackberry tart, raspberry compote, tapenade and black plum, but picked at the right time and made with a typically deft touch by Peter Fraser. It’s a wine of intensity, verve and impressive harmony, with an elegant sheen of oak tastefully applied.

96 points Marcus Ellis for Halliday Wine Companion August 2024

20% whole bunch 30% destemmed and berry sorted and 50% crushed to open top fermenters. 20 days on skins and kept on lees in 30% new French oak puncheons. A further 12 months in French and Austrian 25 hectolitre foudres. A pool of dark berries, Holly, bilberry and blackcurrant. There is a generous spread of olive tapenade that leads back around to a halo of blue tinged fruit. Prune and blueberries. Oak shows in maple and red oak, undercurrents of savoury tobacco and carob too. Just when you think this may be quite a heady wine, acidity dances in with light feet, making for a medium bodied but grainy textured drop. The Clarendon potency is all here with a nod to dried herbs and wildly fragrant spices. A complex and detailed wine that you can ponder for hours and marvel for days. Drink now or will cellar well for another 6-8 years. A bucket list pairing would be a hearty pork and mushroom pie with gravy poured down the centre funnel. Lode Pies signature Pithovier would do it justice.

96 points Shanteh Wale for Wine Pilot April 2025

Hickinbotham Vineyard is one of Australia's most revered single vineyard estates, perched high in the hills of Clarendon where elevation, ancient soils and a cooler climate create wines of uncommon intensity and refinement. Originally planted by Alan Hickinbotham in 1971, the vineyard has supplied fruit to some of Australia's most celebrated wines for decades. Today, under the ownership of Jackson Family Wines, the estate continues its rise as a standalone icon, with Chris Carpenter directing the winemaking and Charlie Seppelt meticulously managing the vineyard.

Brooks Road Shiraz takes its name from the road that winds past the estate and showcases the unique personality of Clarendon. Unlike the richer, warmer expressions often associated with McLaren Vale, this elevated site produces Shiraz with remarkable perfume, structure and freshness. The 2022 vintage delivered exceptional fruit quality, allowing the vineyard's distinctive character to shine through with precision and detail.

Deep crimson purple in colour, the nose is immediately captivating with aromas of blackberry, blueberry and black cherry layered with violet, black pepper and star anise. As the wine evolves, notes of dark chocolate, olive tapenade and subtle smoky spice emerge, adding complexity and intrigue. The palate is powerful yet beautifully controlled, combining concentrated dark fruits with savoury nuances and finely textured tannins. A bright line of acidity provides energy and focus, while the finish is long, seamless and intensely flavoured, revealing layers of spice, mineral notes and lingering blackberry fruit.

This is a superb match for slow roasted lamb shoulder, chargrilled wagyu, venison with juniper, smoky eggplant dishes or a rich mushroom and truffle pithivier. Although already immensely impressive, the wine possesses the balance and structure to reward patient cellaring for fifteen to twenty years, developing even greater complexity and elegance.