2022 Jeff Cohn Cellars Domaine des Chirats Rockpile Syrah, Sonoma

Distinctive and unusual for a California syrah. Structured, dry, tense, flinty and complex, offering appetizing singed herb, espresso, iron and chalk flavors, with blackberries, dried blueberries and cocoa. Easy to mistake for a Cote-Rotie from France's Rhone Valley. Made in a partnership with Yves Cuilleron. Drinkable now, but best from 2030.

97 points jamessuckling.com

This rich but refined effort is a collaboration with Yves Cuilleron, and the influence is unmistakable. The raspberry and black-olive scented nose exhibits elements of this wine's Rockpile origin and the famed French vigneron's restraint. The palate is saturated with berry flavors, but not overblown, and the finish shows an evolving array of spices for over 90 seconds.

94 points Tom R. Capo wineenthusiast.com

From the wild, remote Rockpile AVA high above Lake Sonoma, Domaine des Chirats is a compelling Franco Californian collaboration between Rhône master Yves Cuilleron and Californian winemaker Jeff Cohn. Together they explore the dramatic potential of this rugged mountain terroir, where fractured rock, elevation and fierce afternoon winds naturally limit yields and intensify flavour. Their shared philosophy blends Rhône sensibility with Californian confidence, producing Syrah that is powerful yet refined, expressive yet deeply structured.

A deep inky ruby with violet flashes commands attention in the glass. Aromas surge forward with blackberry, dark plum and blueberry layered with cracked black pepper, smoked meat, olive tapenade and hints of graphite and wild herbs. There is an unmistakable mountain energy to the bouquet, raw yet beautifully composed.

The palate is full bodied and sculptural, delivering concentrated black fruit framed by firm, grainy tannins and vibrant acidity. Notes of liquorice, spice, ironstone and subtle oak unfold through the mid palate, leading to a long, resonant finish that feels both muscular and precise. Built for patience, this Rockpile Syrah will evolve impressively over ten to fifteen years, gaining layers of leather, game and savoury complexity.

Picture slow braised short ribs collapsing at the touch of a fork, flame kissed lamb cutlets, or earthy lentil dishes shared as the evening gathers weight. Maybe Massive Attack Mezzanine humming through the room or something dark and hypnotic on vinyl, the wine anchoring the mood with quiet intensity.