2022 Kaesler Old Bastard Shiraz, Barossa Valley

This is sourced from vines that were planted in 1893. With those older vines, producing wine of real concentration and flavor intensity. Color is quite brilliant with a deeper, darker middle wrapped around with a deeper crimson, purply carrot hue. Has an exotic, almost ethereally engaging aroma of plums and blue fruit notes with a subtle, damp, earthy character just lurking in the background. This is a wine of tremendous intensity and richness, and yet it presents with a high degree of elegance and refinement. And at the moment, it is showing so much youthfulness and vibrancy. Fine chalky tannins integrated with the eighteen months in French oak and the fruit just extends almost effortlessly through to a focused long finish. Outstanding wine. Drink 2026–2046.

97 points Ray Jordan for Wine Pilot, April 2026

An iconic Barossa Valley Shiraz from an excellent vintage, maturation is in French oak for around a year and a half, approximately half of that oak new. The fruit is sourced from what the team term the ‘Old Vine Trio’ of vineyards, planted back in 1993, and they focus on the very oldest vines. The wine also enjoys what might be termed a less traditional label. Under cork. Blood red/maroon with a dark purple rim, this is a quintessential big, bold Barossa Shiraz. You will either absolutely adore it, or it may not be for you. I suspect most people will fall into the former category, bewitched by its plushness and the gorgeous nose, which reveals notes of black fruits, cassis, mocha, dried herbs, blackberries, axle grease, licorice and chocolate with excellent oak integration. The structure is seamless and yet intense, while juicy throughout. There is excellent length, balance and focus. Love it. A thirty-year proposition. Drink 2026–2056.

97 points Ken Gargett for Wine Pilot, April 2026

I gave my dad a bottle of this for his 70th birthday and the empty bottle still sits on the shelf of his workshop. I think I might take another over for his 88th birthday this year; I'm sure he'll be just as chuffed with it. It's in fine form. 1893-planted shiraz, deeply cut with blackberry, doris plum, fruitcake spice, dark chocolate, roasting meats, cedar and earth. Classically framed (like my dad) but showing some nice energy and line with a raft of fine, sandy tannin and fine acidity. Drink 2025–2045.

96 points Dave Brookes for Halliday Wine Companion, October 2025

The 2022 Shiraz Old Bastard is superb, delivering with immense power and impressive detail. Its rich aromas of blackberry, licorice and dark earth are accented by sweet oak and exotic spices. This is densely packed, youthful and tightly wound, with exceptional overall balance, decadent flavors and perfectly ripened tannins providing a strong finish. Drink 2030–2042.

95 points Angus Hughson for Vinous, August 2025

Deep, bright and youthful purple-red colour, excellent colour for its age. Melted dark chocolate and sawn-timber oak nuances, the palate full bodied and fleshy, with lovely depth of plum and chocolate flavours that fill the mouth with fleshy, dark-fruit flavours and supple tannins, the finish very long and the flow seamless. There is a lot of obvious charred oak flavour here but it will age well and this should integrate and mellow with time. It's not complex now but that should also come with cellaring. If opened young it should be given a serious decant. Drink 2029–2042.

93 points Huon Hooke for The Real Review, January 2026

The Old Bastard vineyard was planted in 1893. The twelve rows of vines on 2.5 acres are classified Ancestor Vines under the Barossa Old Vine Charter, the highest threshold of vine age the region formally recognises. They are of a Shiraz clone now extinct in France and produce fruit with a flavour profile that is particular and consistent across every vintage.

The 2022 was a warm and generous season after a wet winter, producing fruit of excellent concentration and natural balance. Fruit was handpicked and fermented in the traditional manner, matured in 35% new and 65% one-year-old French oak before bottling without fining or filtration. The result is deep and opaque with a bright crimson rim. Cassis, black cherry, tobacco, chocolate and coffee on the nose with layers of spice and dried flowers. The palate is seamlessly structured with fine-grained tannins, remarkable length and the kind of composure that earns patience.

This is a great wine from a historic vineyard of worldwide significance. You’ll need to have patience to truly enjoy the gift of nature it is. Might be a good one to put away for your grandchildren.

Enjoy at a slow pace after the meal.