2022 Kaesler The Bogan Shiraz, Barossa Valley

The beautifully named Bogan is an assemblage of shiraz from plots planted between 1899 and 1965. Full bodied and pure of fruit, it has evolved over the years I've seen it and is seemingly a little lighter on its feet now. Red and dark fruits, crunchy, plummy fruits wth abundant spice, purple floral facets and an earthy core, finishing bright and long wth fine, sandy tannins and an enduring draw on the exit.

94 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Kaesler The Bogan Shiraz from the Barossa Valley is one of the region’s great modern classics, a wine that captures the unapologetic generosity of Barossa Shiraz while still delivering finesse, structure and Kaesler’s trademark polish. The fruit comes from a mix of old vine blocks in Marananga and Greenock where deep red clay, ironstone and gravel soils give the wine its muscular frame and dark, brooding flavour profile. These sites are warm, sun drenched and perfectly suited to producing Shiraz with thick skins, intense colour and powerful aromatics. Kaesler’s team treats the vineyard material with the same seriousness they give their icon wines because The Bogan has become an essential part of the estate’s identity.

Winemaking focuses on preserving richness without sacrificing shape. Fruit is hand picked at optimal ripeness and fermented in open fermenters where it receives gentle plunging to extract plush texture without harshness. The wine is then matured in a combination of high quality French and American oak barriques that add spice, mocha and sweetness but never overwhelm the fruit. Over the years The Bogan has built a loyal following thanks to its ability to deliver deep flavour, pure fruit and impressive consistency vintage after vintage. It has also earned strong recognition from critics both in Australia and abroad.

In the glass the wine is an inky purple with crimson highlights. The nose bursts with black cherry, blackberry and plum compote wrapped around notes of dark chocolate, licorice, vanilla bean, warm spice and roasted coffee. Beneath the richness sits that classic Barossa earthiness which ties the wine to its old vine origins. As it opens the bouquet becomes more layered with hints of violets, black pepper, cedar and subtle savoury undertones.

The palate is bold, lush and satisfyingly full with waves of black fruit saturating the mouth. Fine grained tannins provide structure and balance, carrying flavours of chocolate, dark berry liqueur, clove, spice and sweet oak. There is a lovely density to the mid palate that reflects the concentration of old vine fruit. The finish is long, smooth and warming with lingering notes of dark fruit and spice. While it is built for immediate enjoyment, it also has the backbone to age gracefully for a decade or longer, softening into savoury complexity over time.

It pairs beautifully with hearty dishes such as slow cooked beef brisket, lamb shanks, smoky barbecued meats, pepper crusted steak, roast duck or mushroom based dishes with truffle or thyme. The wine’s richness and velvety tannins make it wonderfully versatile at the table, especially alongside robust flavours.