2022 Kuenhof Eisacktaler Sylvaner DOC, Alto Adige

A zesty nose focused on tight minerality, white pepper, chalk, white flowers and white peaches. Grip and tension on the palate, which is light-bodied, tight and super crisp with a polished finish. Drink now. Screw cap.

90 points jamessuckling.com

Kuenhof Sylvaner from Alto Adige’s Valle Isarco is a brilliant, finely sculpted white that captures the quiet intensity of this often-overlooked variety. Grown on steep, terraced vineyards between 550 and 700 metres above sea level, Peter Pliger’s Sylvaner is anything but rustic. It’s sleek, mineral and tightly wound, with remarkable ageing potential and a distinctly alpine personality.

The soils are a mix of slate, quartz and mica, which give the wine its hallmark stony character. Grapes are farmed organically, hand harvested, and fermented with native yeasts in stainless steel and large acacia barrels. Lees ageing adds texture without heaviness, preserving the clarity and cut that makes this one of the most distinctive Sylvaners in Italy.

Aromas unfold with green pear, fresh mountain herbs, lemon peel and crushed stone. The palate is dry, linear and precise, showing crisp orchard fruit, grapefruit zest, a hint of almond and plenty of wet rock minerality. It finishes long and firm, with a salty, savoury snap that keeps you coming back.

Food pairing: pairs beautifully with alpine cheeses, grilled white asparagus, trout with brown butter, fennel and citrus salad, or light veal dishes. Also excellent with mushroom risotto or vegetable terrines.

Cellar potential: impressive ageing capacity. While vivid and refreshing now, it will evolve over 8 to 12 years, gaining savoury depth, waxy texture and nutty complexity.