2022 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay, Kumeu Auckland

Complex and alluring bouquet, layers of spice and mineral, core white fleshed fruits and lees mineral complexities. As the wine opens out in glass and warms a little, the mouthfeel, fruit and floral tones blossom and expand. Fantastic texture and length, persistent mouthfeel, a cashew nut butter note, barrel spice moments and synergies from the collection of attributes and inputs. Lengthy, taut and complex. A wine for the cellar still. Best from 2025 through 2035+.

97 points Cameron Douglas MS camdouglasms.com

The 2022 Hunting Hill Chardonnay is mouthfilling and obvious in its outlay of flavor in the mouth—yellow peach, apricot, Golden Delicious apple, beeswax/lanolin and ripe lime flesh. The flutter of acidity that feathers the fruit is compelling and alluring in its power and juiciness. An exciting wine. It's a wine I want to drink (I will; the perks) and a wine I am enjoying considering too. It's intellectual and sensorial/corporeal in equal measure. The Hunting Hill Vineyard was planted in 1982 and overlooks Mate's Vineyard. This is a pleasurable, exciting, fleshy, complex, salty, kaleidoscopic wine. Excellent. Recommended. 13.5% alcohol, sealed under screw cap.

95+ points Erin Larkin robertparker.com

Cooked apple and lemon curd with hints of pie crust and sweet biscuit. Some kiwi undertones. Medium-bodied with creamy texture and a flavorful finish. Drink now. Screw cap.

95 points jamessuckling.com

Fragrant, aromatic chardonnay with slightly green tree fruit flavours, citrus/lime and a backbone of nicely integrated and pleasantly vibrant acidity that helps drive a lengthy finish. A smattering of nutty yeast lees adds extra interest. 23 Jul 2023 Drink 2023–2029

94 points Bob Campbell MW therealreview.com

2022 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay is a finely tuned, site driven expression that shows why this single vineyard sits just behind Mate’s in the Kumeu River hierarchy. Hunting Hill lies on a warm, north facing slope in Kumeu, just west of Auckland, with clay rich soils that deliver depth, texture and generosity while still preserving tension. The maritime influence and long growing season allow Chardonnay to ripen slowly, building flavour without losing freshness.

Kumeu River remains a family run estate, with winemaking led by Michael Brajkovich MW, whose influence on New Zealand Chardonnay is profound. The philosophy is unwavering. Estate fruit, hand harvesting, wild fermentation, full malolactic fermentation and careful use of French oak, always in service of balance rather than impact. Hunting Hill is typically the most opulent of the single vineyard wines, but it is never heavy or loose.

The 2022 vintage brings both richness and precision. Aromatically, the wine is layered and composed. White peach, nectarine and citrus oil lead, followed by subtle notes of hazelnut, cashew and gentle struck match. With air, more savoury nuances emerge. Brioche, cream and a faint mineral edge add complexity without excess.

On the palate, the wine is expansive yet beautifully controlled. Ripe stone fruit flows through a creamy mid palate, supported by bright, integrated acidity that gives shape and length. The texture is generous, but there is a clear line of freshness running underneath, preventing any sense of weight. Oak is seamlessly absorbed, contributing savoury complexity rather than sweetness. The finish is long, refined and persistent, echoing stone fruit, nutty tones and a gentle saline note.

This is a Chardonnay that shines with food. Roast chicken, lobster, scallops, pork or richer vegetable dishes are natural partners. While already highly expressive, 2022 Hunting Hill has the structure to age gracefully over ten to fifteen years, developing deeper nutty, honeyed and savoury complexity while retaining its poise.

2022 Kumeu River Hunting Hill Chardonnay is confident, generous and beautifully balanced. A benchmark New Zealand Chardonnay and a compelling expression of one of Kumeu’s most celebrated sites.