2022 l'Oratoire Saint Martin Cairanne Réserve des Seigneurs Blanc, Southern Rhone

Biodynamic

Shiny yellow; the bouquet has capacity, can emerge with interest, shows an aroma of crushed white fruits, peach and a little pear. The palate attacks with a rounded wave of citrus-tinged white fruits, holds its shape, has the gras to accompany sauced dishes, Munster, Brie de Meaux, Isle of Mull cheese. It seems to carry Roussanne, Gren blanc fat at its heart [tasted blind].

John Livingstone-Learmonth drinkrhone.com

The limestone soils of Cairanne make it a wonderful appellation for whites, while the elevation and Oratoire’s meticulously managed old vines produce yields of only 25 hl/ha on average. In this wine, the domaine’s low-input, precise winemaking plays its part, although the intense energy and vibrant mineral freshness can only be attributed to the vineyards and the work within them. The 2021 is a blend of 30% Clairette (planted in 1935), Grenache Blanc and Gris (also from the 1930s) and co-planted Roussanne and Marsanne from a beautiful old plot surrounded by pine trees (established in 1982). The fruit was fermented without additions and raised in the domaine’s old concrete tanks.

This is a cracking, textural and mouth-watering white Rhône. You get the intensity and concentration from the low yields alongside wonderful perky freshness. The palate is layered and punchy, with detailed flavours of preserved lemon, fennel seed and verbena, before a long, chalky finish—it’s engaging and packed full of complexity and interest. Simply decant and add roast chicken.