2022 Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Montpelain, Beaujolais

The 2022 Morgon Montpelain, a cuvée that used to be blended into the La Voûte Saint-Vincent, is aged in 30-hectolitre concrete eggs. Redcurrant, strawberry pastille and granite scents on the nose, this has a pleasing strictness. The palate is medium-bodied with ne denition, fresh and focused, structured with a sense of boldness towards the finish. Burly Bojo! Cellar this for 4-5 years if you know what's good for you.

91+ points Neal Martin vinous.com

The 2022 Morgon Montpelain opens with aromas of spiced blueberries, cassis, peonies and slate. Tightly wound and high in energy, it has a structure of chalky tannins that dust the cheeks and bright acids that create a synergetic resistance along the palate. Medium to full-bodied, generous berry-fruited notes play a supporting role, progressing swiftly along the palate with zippy haste. This wine will surely need a few years to fall into place.

90 points William Kelley robertparker.com

 This a historic domaine plot but was only separated out for the first time in 2017. It is on the edge of Lancié, on silty clay, the vines dating back to 1931. Very concentrated crimson purple, with a fresh clean, even quite gravelly, nose. A fresher red fruit with density at the back, notable backbone with a touch of salinity behind. Drink from 2026-2032. Tasted Feb 2024.

91 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Louis-Claude Desvignes traces its lineage through seven generations, presently helmed by the siblings Claude-Emmanuel and Louis-Benoît Desvignes. The estate has always encompassed an innovative spirit: the family was one of the first in Morgon to “estate bottle” back in 1955 and refused thermo-vinification, and today, the team has redefined what “traditional, age-worthy” Beaujolais in the face of climate change can look like. Spanning a total of 13 hectares, the estate's holdings are concentrated exclusively within Morgon. In the aftermath of the 2017 frosts, the siblings embarked upon a modest négoçiant venture, yielding six cuvées sourced from single vineyards in Morgon and its immediate environs. The intricacies inherent in their wines owe much to the exceptional source materials, from venerable vines averaging 65 years of age and situated upon some of Morgon's most esteemed terroirs. While the domaine's vineyards have long adhered to organic principles, the year 2021 heralded their pursuit of an official AB certification. When it comes time for harvest, the grapes are left on the vines longer than their neighbors but never veer toward overripe, a testament to meticulous vineyard stewardship. Following a stringent sorting process, where only the fruit "that [we] would want to eat" makes the cut, the grapes undergo destemming in varying proportions. The grapes undergo lengthy vinifications, with cap immersion facilitating gentle extraction. Upholding his father's discerning approach, Louis-Benoît ages the wines in cement eggs and tanks, purportedly preserving the wines' freshness. The resulting wines epitomize depth and richness, navigating a nuanced equilibrium that eschews ostentation. Crafted with longevity in mind, the wines beckon the consumer to explore the harmonious interplay between flavors, textures and salinity as they evolve over time. The 2022 vintage is a testament to the Desvignes family's mastery, achieving phenolic ripeness while maintaining vibrancy from start to finish. Elegant in their sense of ease, every wine from this vintage comes highly recommended.

robertparker.com

Louis Claude Desvignes Morgon Montpelain is a pure and expressive Cru Beaujolais, crafted by winemakers Claude-Emmanuelle and Louis-Benoît Desvignes, the eighth generation of this esteemed winemaking family. Known for their hands-off approach and deep respect for Morgon’s terroir, the Desvignes siblings focus on organic viticulture, whole-cluster fermentation, and minimal intervention, allowing each vineyard site to shine. Montpelain comes from a high-altitude, sandy-granite terroir, giving the wine a fresh, lifted character while maintaining Morgon’s signature depth and structure.

Bright ruby in color, this Gamay opens with aromas of wild raspberry, black cherry, and red currant, intertwined with floral hints of violet and peony. Subtle earthy notes of crushed granite and spice add depth. The palate is medium-bodied and vibrant, delivering juicy red fruit flavors, a fine mineral backbone, and silky tannins that provide structure without weight. A lively acidity carries through to a long, precise finish, leaving traces of fresh herbs and subtle spice.

This Morgon pairs beautifully with roast duck, charcuterie, grilled lamb chops, and earthy mushroom dishes. It also complements hard cheeses like Comté and Tomme de Savoie. While incredibly drinkable in its youth, Montpelain has the ability to age gracefully over the next 5–8 years, gaining further complexity.

Under the careful hands of Claude-Emmanuelle and Louis-Benoît Desvignes, Morgon Montpelain is a superb expression of both the appellation and the family's dedication to traditional Beaujolais winemaking, offering elegance, vibrancy, and terroir-driven authenticity.