2022 Luigi Baudana Cerretta Barolo, Piedmont

A jeweled ruby color, the 2022 Barolo Cerretta is expressive and layered with aromas of ripe cherries and delicate spice. Full-bodied, it reveals velvety, well-defined tannins with greater richness and depth compared to the Baudana bottling. The palate is long and structured with impressive persistence.

97 points Jeb Dunnuck

The nose conjures something specific and completely evocative, cherry preserves, and mountain herbs drifting through a warm pine forest with a clarity and freshness that feels almost cinematic. The palate delivers on every promise—plush and generous with plump red fruits weaving seamlessly through savory notes while fine tannins hold the whole beautiful picture together with a quiet and assured elegance. Editor’s Choice.

95 points Wine Enthusiast

Cerretta is one of the great vineyards of Serralunga d’Alba, a name associated with Barolo of formidable structure, savoury depth and impressive ageing potential. Luigi and Fiorina Baudana established the tiny estate’s reputation before passing its stewardship to the Vajra family in 2009. Importantly, G.D. Vajra chose to preserve Luigi Baudana as a separate domaine, respecting the vineyards and the individual Serralunga character that made these wines so compelling in the first place.

The Baudana family’s parcel in Cerretta lies on the classic calcareous marl and sandstone soils of Serralunga. Compared with the estate’s Baudana cru, Cerretta can show a darker, more muscular personality, with Nebbiolo’s fragrance sitting over a substantial tannic frame. The hot, exceptionally dry 2022 season produced concentrated fruit, yet the best Serralunga sites had the structure to carry that ripeness. This is one for patience rather than immediate gratification.

Deep garnet ruby, opening with Morello cherry, dark cherry and redcurrant before rose and violet emerge. Blood orange, liquorice and anise are joined by black tea, tobacco and a ferrous, earthy note. The palate is powerful and tightly coiled, with concentrated cherry fruit held firmly by chalky tannins. Orange peel and fennel provide lift through the middle, while tobacco, iron and savoury spice gather across a long, stern finish.

Braised veal cheek with porcini and polenta would be magnificent, alongside duck with chestnuts, lamb shoulder with rosemary, tajarin with mushrooms or grilled radicchio with taleggio. Our pick is the veal cheek. Slow cooked, deeply savoury and exactly substantial enough for young Cerretta.

Cellaring: Best from 2030 to 2047+.