2022 Markus Molitor Alte Reben Riesling, Mosel

Full of peachy fruit with a flinty character giving it excellent tension, this succulent and well-structured medium-bodied wine is an excellent introduction to dry Mosel riesling. Long, simultaneously silky and stony finish. Drink or hold.

94 points jamessuckling.com

Markus Molitor Alte Reben Riesling is a beautifully expressive and ageworthy wine that captures the breathtaking steep-slope terroir of the Mosel in its purest form. Markus Molitor, often called the “perfectionist of the Mosel,” took over his family’s estate in 1984 at just 20 years old and has since built it into one of Germany’s most respected wineries. His meticulous approach to vineyard work and cellar craft is legendary, producing Rieslings of incredible precision, complexity, and longevity. “Alte Reben” means “old vines,” and this wine is sourced from some of the estate’s oldest parcels, many over 50 years old, planted on impossibly steep, south-facing slate slopes along the Mosel River.

These ungrafted, old vines grow on classic grey and blue Devonian slate soils, which provide excellent drainage and force the roots deep into the rock, yielding small, concentrated berries. The steep slopes capture maximum sunlight while the river below moderates temperatures, allowing the grapes to ripen slowly and evenly. Harvest is carried out entirely by hand, often in multiple passes to ensure perfect ripeness. Fermentation takes place with natural yeasts in traditional large oak foudres and stainless steel, depending on the parcel, preserving vibrant acidity while allowing complex aromatics to unfold. The result is a dry or feinherb-style Riesling (depending on the vintage) that combines intensity with Mosel’s signature delicacy.

In the glass, Alte Reben Riesling shows a brilliant pale straw colour with green tinges. Aromas of lime zest, white peach, crushed slate, and delicate florals rise vividly, layered with hints of herbs and flint. The palate is laser-focused yet textural, with citrus and stone fruit purity balanced by racy acidity and a long, mineral-drenched finish. The depth and precision from the old vines give the wine an almost electric intensity, while its balance ensures graceful aging for decades.

This Riesling is stunning with fresh oysters, sashimi, scallops with citrus beurre blanc, or classic German dishes like pork schnitzel and sauerkraut. It also pairs beautifully with spicy Thai salads or soft goat’s cheese. While thrilling in its youth, Alte Reben has the structure and vitality to cellar for 20+ years, evolving honeyed, smoky, and petrol nuances over time.