2022 Maso di Mezzo Teroldego Rotaliano DOC, Trentino

Gold Mundus Vini Spring Tasting 2025

Teroldego is one of northern Italy’s great local varieties, and its spiritual home is the Campo Rotaliano, a dramatic gravelly plain surrounded by sheer mountains in Trentino. Maso di Mezzo draws on this distinctive landscape for a red that feels unmistakably Alpine: deeply coloured and generously flavoured, yet fresher and more energetic than its appearance might suggest.

The 2022 vintage gave plenty of ripeness, which suits Teroldego’s naturally dark fruit and savoury personality. Warm days encourage blackberry and plum flavours, while the cooling influence of the surrounding Dolomites helps retain acidity. The result has substance without becoming heavy, making it an appealing alternative for anyone who enjoys northern Italian reds but wants to venture beyond the familiar names.

Deep ruby purple, with blackberry, black cherry and ripe plum joined by violet and a touch of blueberry. Black pepper, liquorice, juniper and dried thyme add a savoury edge. The palate is juicy and medium bodied, with dark fruit at its core, lively acidity and supple, slightly earthy tannins. Black cherry and plum return on the finish with pepper, liquorice and a pleasantly bitter twist.

Mushroom and taleggio polenta would be excellent, as would pork and fennel sausages, grilled eggplant with tomato and smoked mozzarella, speck with lentils or beef skewers with rosemary. Our pick is the polenta, piled with sautéed mushrooms and enough melted taleggio to make restraint completely pointless.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2031.