2022 McHenry Hohnen Hazel's Vineyard BDX, Margaret River

While the roast is in the oven, decant this so it unfurls in time for serving. Highly aromatic with cassis, currants, tobacco and freshly ground coffee, a whiff of wintergreen and raspberry leaf. No shortage of tannins making a mark across the full-bodied palate yet there’s a suppleness, even if a hint of unripe/greenness lurks within; but the roast should mask that.

92 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Hazel’s Vineyard sits in the cooler southern reaches of Margaret River and produces one of the most refined Bordeaux inspired blends in the region. McHenry Hohnen was founded by David Hohnen, a pioneer of the Margaret River wine industry who also helped establish Cape Mentelle and later Cloudy Bay in Marlborough. Together with his brother-in-law Murray McHenry, the estate has focused on organic and biodynamic farming, allowing the vineyards to express the unique maritime character of the region. Hazel’s Vineyard takes its name from a family member and draws on carefully selected fruit grown on gravelly loam soils that suit Bordeaux varieties particularly well.

The wine shows a deep crimson colour with brilliant clarity. Aromas open with blackcurrant, dark plum and red cherry layered with cedar, violet and subtle tobacco leaf. As it develops in the glass further notes of graphite, dried herbs and gentle spice appear, adding depth and complexity. The palate is structured yet elegant with fine tannins carrying flavours of cassis, blackberry and savoury herbs across a polished frame. Fresh acidity from the maritime climate keeps the wine lively while careful oak maturation brings texture and refinement.

The finish is long and balanced with lingering dark fruit and spice. It will continue to evolve beautifully for fifteen years or more and is excellent with roast lamb, grilled beef, slow braised dishes or Mediterranean style cuisine.