2022 Paxton Graciano Biodynamic, McLaren Vale

I adore this style of wine: fragrant, spicy, mid-weighted and immensely charming with a real spindle of tannin providing structural assertion, rather than any vacuous, pulpy fruit. A late-ripening Iberian variety that performs well, belying its small (but growing) plantings in Australia. Succulent red cherry, black pepper grind, cardamon and lilac, growing in trajectory with air as that skein of pithy tannins, so moreish, tows the flavours to satisfying length. A spicy cru beaujolais sort of thing.

93 points Ned Goodwin MW winecompanion.com.au

Lighter in body with distinct savoury and white pepper characters filled out with bright red fruits. Light tannins make this wine ready to drink young, although cellaring potential is in the medium term.