2022 Pierre-Marie Chermette Moulin à Vent Les Trois Roches, Beaujolais

This is named for the three rocky parcels of vines from which it derives—Rochegrès, Roche Noire and Rochelle. The average age of the vines on these sites is now over 40 years. Pierre-Marie points out that La Rochelle (which overlooks the famous windmill) brings structure, whereas the east-facing Rochegrès contributes finesse and supple tannins, and the Roche Noire grapes bring liveliness and juicy fruit. One of the common features of these sites is the concentration of manganese in the soils, which delivers an unmistakable mineral thread that runs through the wine.

Unlike the wines above, Chermette’s Moulin à Vent undergoes a portion of barrique aging (20%) which gives you some idea of the intense personality of this Cru. As always, it’s the most savoury of the range, visible here with touches of fennel, some bright spices and smoky minerality alongside the sappy brambly fruit profile. Mouth-coating and powerful, it’s a densely flavoured and mineral-tinged Beaujolais with a compelling, sinewy finish. The business.