2022 Pierrick Laroche Maison Des Hates Chablis Vau de Vey 1er Cru, Burgundy

A very appealing Vau de Vey with plenty of weight and concentration on the palate. Facing south and east, the steep slopes only get sun in the morning, equalling lots of acidity which acts as a fine counterpoise to the fruit ripeness. Finishes with a lingering, stony, savoury note. Aged 15 months in old barrels. Lots to enjoy already, this will age well.

92 points Andy Howard MW, Decanter

Pierrick Laroche is one of the exciting younger talents of Chablis, having established Domaine des Hâtes in 2010 after taking over his family's vineyards in Maligny. With a focus on thoughtful vineyard management and minimal intervention in the cellar, he produces Chardonnay that celebrates the purity and distinctive mineral character of northern Burgundy. Vau de Vey is one of his most compelling Premier Crus, offering impressive depth and elegance.

Vau de Vey is a steep, narrow valley with predominantly east facing slopes and classic Kimmeridgian limestone soils. Its cooler exposure encourages slow ripening, giving the wines a wonderful combination of freshness, concentration and mineral intensity. The warm 2022 vintage adds generous fruit while preserving the vineyard's naturally lively character.

Pale gold with delicate green reflections. Fresh lemon, ripe pear and white peach mingle with citrus blossom, crushed oyster shell and a subtle hint of fresh almond. The palate is beautifully focused, with juicy orchard fruit, vibrant acidity and a fine, almost chalky texture. Notes of lemon oil, wet stone and gentle sea spray linger through a long, refreshing finish.

Try it with steamed King George whiting and ginger, grilled cuttlefish with fennel and lemon, or a delicate leek and ricotta tart. Its freshness would also be wonderful alongside freshly shucked oysters or crab with a light herb dressing.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2035. A beautifully structured Premier Cru that should develop greater savoury complexity over the next several years.