2022 Podere Monastero Pinot Nero IGT La Pineta, Tuscany

The initial burst of earthiness blows off with a swirl to reveal a mix of fresh red berry, spice and floral notes on the nose. Medium-bodied with a vein of brighter fruit and mineral flavors. The tannins are young and firm and need to integrate into the wine better. Drinkable now, but give this another year to even out.

90 points jamessuckling.com

Podere Monastero Pinot Nero IGT La Pineta is one of Tuscany’s most unexpected and captivating reds — a cool-climate style Pinot Noir grown high in the Chianti hills, yet with the soul and structure of Burgundy. Crafted in tiny quantities by the late and legendary oenologist Alessandro Cellai (of Castellare fame), this is a wine that defies regional expectations. It’s elegant, fine-boned and deeply expressive, proving that Pinot can thrive in the right Tuscan pockets when handled with care and ambition.

The fruit is grown on a small vineyard in Castellina in Chianti at around 500 metres elevation, where the cool nights and limestone-rich soils give the Pinot delicacy and aromatic lift. Cellai planted Dijon clones here in the early 2000s and tended the vineyard with Burgundian focus — low yields, high-density planting, and careful canopy management. Vinification is traditional: cold maceration, fermentation in open vats, and ageing in French oak barriques (50 percent new) for around 12 to 14 months.

In the glass, La Pineta is all about perfume and precision. Expect aromas of wild strawberry, red cherry, rose petal and forest floor, layered with hints of baking spice, cedar and crushed stone. The palate is medium-bodied, silky and linear, with bright acidity, fine tannins and a long, mineral finish. It has a haunting, savoury elegance that’s rare for Tuscan reds.

Food pairing: Perfect with duck breast and sour cherry glaze, porcini mushroom risotto, roast quail, or tagliatelle with truffle butter. Also superb with aged cheeses like Pecorino or Taleggio.

Cellar potential: Beautiful now with a short decant, but will evolve gracefully for 8 to 12 years, developing more savoury detail, sous bois and soft spice.