2022 Quealy Seventeen Rows Pinot Noir, Mornington Peninsula

Of all the Quealy pinots, Seventeen Rows needs the most time to settle, and while released almost a year after the other pinot noirs, it merely hints at what it could be in time. It’s the most structured, with firm tannins, plenty of dark fruits and Middle Eastern spices alongside blood orange and peel. A compelling wine, yet the only nag, a bitterness that jars on the finish, although food will temper that, as should time.

94 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

From the cool, elevated slopes of the Yarra Valley, Thousand Candles Syrah reflects the estate’s modern interpretation of this classic Rhône variety through a distinctly Victorian lens. Known for sustainable vineyard practices and minimal intervention in the cellar, Thousand Candles focuses on capturing freshness, spice and textural finesse rather than sheer weight. Long growing seasons and significant diurnal shifts allow Syrah here to develop aromatic complexity and finely detailed structure.

A deep ruby crimson with violet highlights glows in the glass. Aromas rise with dark cherry, blackberry and blueberry layered with cracked black pepper, violet, dried herbs and a subtle savoury earthiness. There is an immediate sense of cool climate lift, giving the bouquet both charm and intrigue.

The palate is medium bodied and supple, delivering juicy black fruit and plum flavours framed by fine tannins and refreshing acidity. Notes of liquorice, spice and gentle smoky nuance build through the mid palate, leading to a smooth, persistent finish that feels both vibrant and composed. Enjoyable now for its energy, this Syrah will continue to gain savoury complexity over six to eight years in the cellar.

Picture chargrilled lamb skewers, roasted eggplant with herbs or rich lentil dishes shared as dusk settles. A vinyl spin of TV on the Radio Dear Science or something atmospheric like The xx drifting through the room, the wine slipping easily into a night that feels warm, relaxed and quietly memorable.