2022 Robert Weil Monte Vacano Riesling Trocken, Rheingau

The 2022 Riesling Monte Vacano was harvested in the steepest part of the Gräfenberg, bordering the Turmberg, from a parcel called “Monte Vacano” in Weil family parlance. The nose already signals what a great future this wine has. Gorgeous dried lemon peel and lemon oil are edged with lemon balm, almost with a touch of peppermint, leading to a gorgeous lift and utter creaminess. The palate is fluid, concentrated, sleek and dynamic, imbued with a certain coolness but also with absolute density, concentration and fill on a textural basis. What a gorgeously balanced wine. A soothing, smooth, ethereal note of mint is so lasting on the finish. (Bone-dry)

97 points, Anne Krebiehl, Vinous

Monte Vacano is one of the most fascinating wines in the Robert Weil collection and a deeply personal project for Wilhelm Weil. The name honours his great grandmother, Elena Vacano, and the wine comes from a tiny parcel within the celebrated Kiedrich Gräfenberg. First released from the 2018 vintage, it was conceived as an uncompromising dry Riesling from some of the estate’s finest material, produced in minute quantities and positioned among Weil’s most serious and collectible wines.

The parcel lies high in Gräfenberg on steep, stony phyllite soils, giving Riesling tremendous natural concentration while retaining its characteristic mineral drive. The warm, dry 2022 season produced ripe fruit, yet the best Rheingau sites maintained the acidity needed for balance. Monte Vacano is given extended maturation before release, adding texture and savoury complexity without obscuring the vineyard’s citrus and stone driven personality.

Bright straw gold, with yellow peach, Meyer lemon and grapefruit joined by ripe pear and a touch of apricot. Lemon verbena, chamomile and fresh ginger emerge with air, followed by crushed stone and a faint smoky character. The palate is dry, concentrated and beautifully textured, with citrus and stone fruit wrapped around a firm core of acidity. Preserved lemon and grapefruit peel provide bite before a long, stony finish carrying almond, herbs and subtle smoke.

Butter poached lobster with ginger would be magnificent, alongside turbot with brown butter and capers, scallops with cauliflower and hazelnut, roast chicken with morels or king oyster mushrooms with miso. Our pick is the lobster. Sweet shellfish and a wine with this much citrus, texture and mineral depth deserve some quality time together.

Cellaring: Drink from 2027 to 2050+.