2022 Sandhi Patterson Chardonnay, Santa Barbara

Very rich but very minerally, too, with ripe white peach, almond, lime zest and chalk aromas that lead to almost sweet, honeyed flavors that last through a lingering finish. Medium-bodied, balanced and likely to improve with more age. Drink or hold.

96 points James Suckling

The windswept hills of Santa Barbara County have become a remarkable home for Chardonnay, and Sandhi is one of the producers leading the charge. Founded by sommelier Rajat Parr and winemaker Sashi Moorman, the estate champions restrained winemaking and the influence of cool coastal vineyards. Patterson Vineyard, in the Sta. Rita Hills, benefits from Pacific breezes and a long growing season, allowing Chardonnay to develop flavour while retaining beautiful natural acidity.

Pale straw gold with bright green reflections. Lemon zest, white peach and crisp green apple mingle with orange blossom, toasted hazelnut and a delicate flinty note. The 2022 vintage has lovely concentration without heaviness, combining a creamy, finely textured middle with vibrant citrus acidity and a lingering saline finish.

A terrific match for grilled king prawns with preserved lemon, steamed snapper with ginger and spring onions, or crisp zucchini flowers stuffed with ricotta and herbs.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2033. Its freshness and structure should reward several more years in the cellar.