2022 Santadi Carignano del Sulcis DOC Grotta Rossa, Sardinia

Tobacco, dried thyme, black plums and black olives on the nose, followed by a juicy, dark-fruited and attractively salty palate. Medium-bodied and supple. Delicious now.

92 points James Suckling

Cantina Santadi was founded in 1960 in the Sulcis, the rugged south western corner of Sardinia. Its transformation came through the vision of Antonello Pilloni and the involvement of legendary consultant Giacomo Tachis, who recognised the potential of the region’s old Carignano vines. Santadi went on to become one of Sardinia’s benchmark producers, proving that this hot, windswept island could produce reds with both Mediterranean generosity and real freshness.

Grotta Rossa is named after a local cave and is made from Carignano grown in the Sulcis, where sandy soils, intense sunshine and cooling sea breezes shape the variety. Many vineyards in this corner of Sardinia are traditionally bush trained, and Carignano thrives in the dry conditions. The 2022 is generous without being cumbersome, combining ripe fruit with the savoury, herbal character that makes Sardinian Carignano so appealing.

Deep ruby crimson, opening with black cherry, blackberry and ripe red plum, followed by violet and dried raspberry. Myrtle, rosemary and fennel seed add an aromatic Mediterranean edge, with liquorice, black olive and cracked pepper underneath. The palate is juicy and medium bodied, with dark fruit framed by fresh acidity and supple, gently earthy tannins. Cherry, anise and dried herbs linger through a warm, savoury finish.

Charred octopus with tomato and olives would be terrific, alongside lamb skewers with rosemary, grilled tuna with capers, eggplant stuffed with tomato and pecorino or Sardinian fregola with mushrooms. Our pick is the tuna, grilled quickly and served pink with olives, capers, parsley and lemon.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.