2022 Sinapius Esme Gamay, Northern Tasmania

Geez, Tasmanian gamay is lovely! Close planted, whole clusters, carbonic maceration, wild ferment and maturation in old foudre for eight months. Vivid and vital with a tonic-like vibe. It's all airy red cherry, cranberry and redcurrants with a struck flinty complexity, souk-like spice, pressed wildflowers and scattered amaro and mountain herbs. Some gamey and grilled nutty nuance too, finishing all meaty, spacious and funky. Wild and wonderful drinking.

96 points Special Value Top 100 2024 Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Sinapius Esme Gamay from Northern Tasmania is one of the most exciting modern expressions of Gamay in Australia, crafted by a producer that has become synonymous with precision, intensity, and single-vineyard character. Established by Linda Morice and the late Vaughn Dell, Sinapius is a small, family-run estate in the Pipers River subregion, where cool maritime breezes from Bass Strait and ancient basalt soils create ideal conditions for producing wines of tension and aromatic complexity. Esme Gamay is named after their daughter and reflects both a Burgundian sensibility and a distinctly Tasmanian personality.

In the glass, the wine shows a bright translucent ruby with a glistening edge, youthful and inviting. The nose is perfumed and detailed, with aromas of wild strawberry, raspberry, rose petal, and red cherry intertwined with hints of spice, forest floor, and crushed rocks. The palate is vibrant and medium-bodied, driven by juicy red fruits, fine chalky tannins, and brisk natural acidity that gives the wine lift and definition. There’s a gentle savoury thread underneath, a hallmark of Pipers River’s cool climate, that makes it as intellectually engaging as it is drinkable.

The terroir is crucial to its character. Northern Tasmania’s basalt and ironstone soils lend minerality and structure, while the region’s long, cool growing season preserves acidity and aromatic intensity. Fermentation is carried out with minimal intervention to let the site speak clearly, often with partial whole bunch to add spice and structure. This is a wine that nods to Beaujolais cru in its finesse but remains firmly anchored in its Tasmanian identity.

Food pairings highlight its freshness and delicate tannins. Think duck rillettes, mushroom and thyme tart, roast quail with cranberry glaze, or Tasmanian salmon cooked over charcoal. It’s equally at home with charcuterie or light game dishes. Cellar potential is around 5 to 8 years, developing more earthy, floral, and complex notes over time.

Sinapius wines are produced in tiny quantities, and Esme Gamay is highly allocated, rarely found outside top Australian retailers and fine-wine lists. It has earned glowing critical praise for redefining what Australian Gamay can be, combining serious vineyard work with a light, graceful touch in the cellar.

Northern Tasmania has become a hotbed for elegant cool-climate reds, and this wine is a brilliant example of how Gamay thrives in this environment. The region’s proximity to the sea gives the wines a saline lift, and the cool breezes preserve the delicacy that sets them apart from mainland examples.

Fun fact: Sinapius is one of the few Australian producers to treat Gamay with the same precision as Pinot Noir, proving that this variety can achieve real complexity in Tasmania’s cool basalt soils.