2022 Stanton & Killeen Reserve Durif, Rutherglen

Impenetrable core, building into a rich and deep purple rim. Rich nose of chocolate, blackberry preserve and vanilla oil. Palate is robust and weighty with loads of ripe dark fruits layered by mocha and pepper spices. Great length is driven by firm and well integrated tannins. Will cellar well and I’d certainly recommend an equally robust protein served with it. Drink 2024 to 2037.

91 points Stuart Knox for The Real Review, January 2024

Stanton & Killeen was established in 1875 and is now run by the seventh generation Natasha and Wendy Killeen. The estate sits three kilometres west of Rutherglen on well-drained red loam soils.

Durif, aka Petite Sirah, has been grown in the warm continental climate of the region since 1906. The Fortitude Reserve is named after Norman Killeen, the fifth-generation winemaker who guided the family business through some of its most challenging decades. Fruit is selected from the best estate parcels each vintage and made in a style that suits modern tastebuds better than the region’s past heavily extracted styles.

The 2022 vintage was somewhat shaped by La Niña conditions, with cooler temperatures and good rainfall producing a long even ripening season. The result is a Durif with more vibrant acidity and freshness than for example in the 2019, while retaining the full-bodied depth and dark fruit intensity of the variety. 

Deep ruby-purple, the nose shows blood plum, dark chocolate and liquorice with subtle spice and a smoky oak thread. The palate is full-bodied and structured with firm but rounded tannins, excellent acidity and a long, confident finish.

Powerful yet approachable, this is a wine that honours the variety and Rutherglen without overwhelming food at the table. Hearty dishes are still what this craves, whether you prefer vegetables or meat . Give the wine plenty of air for 30 minutes before serving.

Drink now through 2030.