2022 Thibaud Boudignon Savennieres Les Vignes Cendree, Loire Valley

Thibaud Boudignon Savennieres Les Vignes Cendree from the Loire Valley is a masterclass in precision and power. Crafted by Thibaud Boudignon, one of France’s most talked-about winemakers, this Chenin Blanc comes from a tiny parcel in Savennieres, where schist and volcanic soils give the wine its unmistakable tension and minerality.

Thibaud, originally from Bordeaux and trained in Burgundy, has developed a cult following for his meticulous, low-intervention approach. Farming is organic, yields are kept low, and every decision from vine to bottle is about letting the site speak. Les Vignes Cendree, or “ash vines,” is a reference to the pale soils that lend the wine its striking finesse and energy.

In the glass, it opens with white peach, quince, lime blossom and smoky wet stone. The palate is electric and focused, showing lemon peel, green apple, crushed rock and subtle lanolin, with an intense chalky backbone. There’s incredible drive here, with mouthwatering acidity balanced by quiet concentration and texture. It’s serious Chenin, but it doesn’t scream—just hums with purity and place.

Pair it with grilled lobster, roast chicken with tarragon, aged Comté or a simple salad of fennel and citrus. Drink it now for its brightness or cellar it to watch the layers unfold.