2022 Torbreck The Pict Mataro, Barossa Valley

Torbreck's standalone mataro, The Pict, hailing from the northern Barossa Valley, is a juicy, spice-infused ride of blood plum, boysenberry and black cherry fruits etched with the deep, dark, gamey spice that is a feature of the grape. There's some Lutheran garrigue here, too; thyme, sage and such, apparent in the crevices of the wine and a ferrous, meaty sheen that I love. Elastic, silty tannins also sway throughout the wine. Finishes long, dark and spicy.

95 points Dave Brookes winecompanion.com.au

Torbreck The Pict Mataro from the Barossa Valley is one of the most commanding and characterful reds in Torbreck’s collection, a wine that channels the power and mystery of the ancient Mataro grape. Its name, The Pict, honours the painted tribes of early Scotland, a fitting symbol for this bold, enduring and fiercely individual wine. Crafted by winemaker Ian Hongell, it is Torbreck’s homage to the Barossa’s oldest vines and to the Rhône heritage that inspires the estate’s philosophy.

The fruit is sourced exclusively from the historic Mattchoss Vineyard in Moppa, home to some of the oldest surviving Mataro vines in the Barossa. These dry-grown, century-old vines are planted in deep red-brown loam over ironstone, producing small yields of berries with extraordinary concentration. The vineyard’s elevated site and rocky soils give the wine its muscular structure and earthy intensity. Grapes are hand harvested and fermented in small open vats before spending around 20 months in French oak barriques, with a small proportion of new oak used to bring balance and texture. The approach is deliberately restrained, allowing the variety’s natural power and savoury depth to shine.

In the glass, The Pict is near opaque with a deep crimson hue and flashes of purple at the rim. The aroma is complex and captivating, showing blackberries, dark plums, black olive and dried herbs alongside notes of graphite, roasted meat and anise. On the palate, it is full bodied and richly layered with flavours of black fruit, licorice, cocoa and earthy spice. The tannins are firm yet fine, giving structure and drive to a long, lingering finish marked by savoury complexity and mineral freshness. It is both primal and polished, showing the elegance that defines Torbreck’s winemaking while retaining the untamed spirit of old vine Mataro.

This wine is built for patience. It will age gracefully for fifteen to twenty years, developing deeper layers of leather, truffle and spice as it matures. It pairs beautifully with roasted lamb, venison, game bird dishes or slow cooked beef brisket. It also complements aged cheeses such as pecorino or comté, where the savoury richness of the wine enhances their nutty intensity.