2022 Umani Ronchi Rosso Conero DOC San Lorenzo, Marche

Raspberries, red cherries, orange peel and fresh herbs on the nose. Fresh and firm on the palate, with a medium body and a rustic feel. Try from 2025.

90 points James Suckling

Umani Ronchi is one of the leading names of Italy’s Adriatic coast, with the Bernetti family championing the native varieties and distinctive terroirs of Marche and Abruzzo for generations. San Lorenzo comes from the Conero area south of Ancona, where Montepulciano thrives in vineyards shaped by warm Mediterranean sunshine, cooling Adriatic breezes and limestone-rich soils. It is a wonderfully characterful expression of Marche, combining generous fruit with savoury Italian personality.

The 2022 vintage brought plenty of sunshine and beautifully ripe fruit, while the maritime influence helped retain freshness and balance. Thoughtful maturation softens Montepulciano’s naturally firm tannins while preserving its rustic edge, producing a wine with ample depth, juicy fruit and the structure to handle some seriously good food.

Deep ruby with purple edges, the nose opens with black cherry, ripe plum and blackberry followed by violets, liquorice and dried Mediterranean herbs. With air, notes of cocoa, tobacco leaf, black olive and warm earth emerge. The palate is generous and succulent, with dark berry fruit wrapped around supple tannins and lively acidity. A savoury thread of herbs, spice and bitter chocolate runs through to a long, earthy finish.

This belongs on a crowded Italian table. Try porchetta with crisp crackling and fennel, wild boar pappardelle, slow-cooked lamb ragù, chargrilled Italian sausages or a wood-fired pizza piled with mushrooms and spicy salami. For something wonderfully uncomplicated, open a bottle alongside aged Pecorino, prosciutto and warm crusty bread.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2032.