2022 Velenosi Lacrima di Morro d'Alba DOC QuerciAntica, Marche

Ripe black fruit and dried herbs on the nose, as well as a deep, savory note that’s a little like toasted coconut. Medium- to full-bodied with the same mix of fruity and savory elements. The tannins are well immersed in the wine, giving both a silky texture and some length. Drink now.

91 points James Suckling

Velenosi was founded in Ascoli Piceno in 1984 by Angela and Ercole Velenosi, starting with little more than enthusiasm and a determination to show what the Marche could do. It has since grown into one of the region’s best known producers, championing local varieties alongside the international grapes grown across central Italy. QuerciAntica is particularly fun because Lacrima is anything but another predictable Italian red.

Lacrima di Morro d’Alba comes from a tiny appellation around Morro d’Alba near the Adriatic coast. The grape takes its name from the way ripe berries can split and release a little drop, or lacrima, of juice. Its real calling card, though, is perfume. Lacrima can be astonishingly aromatic, with flowers, berries and spice tumbling out of the glass. The 2022 QuerciAntica captures that exotic personality while remaining fresh and supple.

Vivid ruby purple, bursting with blackberry, raspberry and ripe cherry, then violet, lavender and geranium. Black pepper, liquorice and a little clove give the perfume a savoury counterpoint. The palate is juicy and medium bodied, with plush berry fruit, lively acidity and soft, easy tannins. Raspberry and dark cherry return through the finish with floral spice and a gently earthy twist.

Pizza topped with grilled eggplant, smoked mozzarella and oregano is terrific with all that floral fruit, while pork and fennel meatballs, duck with cherries, mushroom arancini or charred radicchio with balsamic and pecorino take it in different directions. Serve it slightly cool and let Lacrima’s wonderfully eccentric perfume loose.

Cellaring: Drink now to 2030.