2022 Villa Maria Keltern Chardonnay, Hawke's Bay

Intense and deliciously complex chardonnay with grapefruit, saline/oyster shell, ginger, nutty yeast lees and spicy French oak flavours. Impressive depth and cellaring potential. A remarkable success from a difficult vintage 29 Sep 2023 Drink 2023–2029

96 points Bob Campbell MW therealreview.com

Villa Maria Keltern Chardonnay from Marlborough is one of New Zealand’s most acclaimed single-vineyard Chardonnays, consistently recognised for its elegance, power, and precision. Sourced from the Keltern Vineyard in the inland foothills of Hawke’s Bay’s Mangatahi subregion (not Marlborough), this wine captures the tension between ripeness and restraint that defines great cool-climate Chardonnay.

Planted in 1999, the Keltern site sits on ancient river terraces with free-draining soils composed of silt and loam over gravel. Cool nights and long daylight hours allow for slow ripening, which contributes to the wine’s structure and refined acidity. Hand picked fruit is whole-bunch pressed and fermented with wild yeasts in French oak barriques, with around 30 to 40 percent new oak. Lees stirring and full malolactic conversion add complexity, while preserving the vineyard’s hallmark purity.

The nose is lifted and mineral, showing white peach, lemon curd, flint, cashew and struck match. The palate is finely textured, with layers of citrus and stone fruit, roasted nuts, and a subtle saline note running through a long, focused finish. It’s a wine of depth and drive, equally suited to cellaring or decanting for immediate enjoyment.

Food pairing: excellent with lobster, roast chicken with tarragon, scallops with cauliflower purée, or miso-glazed salmon. Also superb with firm cheeses or creamy pasta dishes.

Cellar potential: will age beautifully over 8 to 12 years, gaining more savoury and nutty complexity with time.