2022 Willi Schaefer Graacher Riesling Feinherb, Mosel

The freshness of spring and the fruits of fall. Astonishing finesse and slatey intensity for a village wine. Sleek and silky on the barely medium-bodied palate. Super-long and graceful finish that takes your breath away. Drink or hold. Screw cap.

95 points James Suckling

Willi Schaefer is one of the Mosel’s most quietly revered estates, a tiny, family run domaine in Graach where nothing is rushed and nothing is overworked. Now led by Christoph Schaefer, the wines remain rooted in tradition, steep slate vineyards, spontaneous ferments and a patient, hands off approach that lets the vineyard speak with remarkable clarity. The Feinherb bottling sits just off dry, a style that captures both the delicacy of Kabinett and a touch more generosity on the palate.

The 2022 vintage shows beautiful lift and precision. Aromatics are finely detailed, lime zest, green apple and white peach, with a gentle floral note drifting through. There is a distinct slate character, cool, stony and slightly smoky, that gives the wine its sense of place.

On the palate it is light to medium bodied with a perfect interplay between subtle sweetness and bright acidity. The fruit feels pure and focused, citrus and orchard notes gliding across the palate, while that feinherb balance keeps it incredibly drinkable. The finish is long and refreshing, with a mineral line and a gentle, mouth watering edge that lingers.

Winemaking is traditional and unforced, native ferments and slow development preserving both aromatics and structure. The result is a Riesling that feels effortless yet deeply expressive, capturing the elegance of the Mosel in a slightly more open, approachable frame.

This is a brilliant food wine. It pairs beautifully with dishes that carry a bit of spice or sweetness, Thai, Vietnamese or lightly spiced pork all work well, and it also complements fresh seafood or simple, herb driven plates.

It is already drinking with great charm, but will age gracefully for ten to fifteen years, gaining more honeyed, savoury complexity while retaining its freshness and line.