2022 Yves Cuilleron St Joseph Les Serines, Northern Rhone

A serious, well-driven and structured Saint-Joseph red. Aromas of dark cherries, mulberries, currants, crushed stones and peppercorns. It’s medium-bodied with fine, firm tannins. Bright core of crunchy dark cherries and a focused finish with excellent length. Drink or hold.

93 points James Suckling

Yves Cuilleron is one of the Northern Rhône’s most respected growers, based in Chavanay at the northern edge of Saint Joseph, where steep granite slopes shape wines of perfume and precision. Les Serines is his nod to the region’s heritage massale selection of Syrah, drawing from old vine material that naturally delivers depth, structure and a more complex expression than standard plantings.

The 2022 vintage brings both ripeness and detail. Aromatics open with dark cherry and blackberry, lifted by violet and a distinct cracked pepper note that immediately places it in the northern Rhône. There is a savoury layer building underneath, olive tapenade, smoked meat and a touch of spice, with a faint mineral edge that reflects the granitic soils.

On the palate it is medium bodied but intense, with fine, structured tannins giving the wine shape and length. The fruit is concentrated yet controlled, supported by a line of fresh acidity that keeps everything in balance. Flavours move from dark berries into more savoury territory, spice, earth and a lightly smoky note, finishing long and persistent.

Winemaking is thoughtful and traditional, often incorporating partial whole bunch and careful oak ageing to build complexity without overwhelming the fruit. The result is a Syrah that feels both polished and expressive, a classic Saint Joseph with a little extra depth from those old vine selections.

This is a natural partner for dishes with a bit of savoury weight. Lamb cutlets, duck, grilled meats or earthy dishes like mushrooms all work beautifully, echoing the wine’s spice and depth.

It is already showing well with a bit of air, but will reward patience over the next eight to twelve years, developing more complexity with notes of leather, spice and forest floor emerging over time.