2023 Adelina Watervale Riesling, Clare Valley

The old labels are gone (and I loved them too, though I don’t mind the new ones either), and I know Col McBryde expects to get shouted at for the change, though, perhaps, there are better things we could be venting spleen over? The price remains the same, anyway. This comes from a block planted in the early 90s, and gets four months on gross lees.

Green apple, lime, aniseed, a distinct chalkiness, with a dusting of spice and perfume. The texture is excellent, definitely stony and chalky, but also with a saline/savoury character too, a little lemon peel and quinine on a tight and chalky finish of excellent length. Love the feel of this wine, and its subtle, almost white vermouth with a green olive seasoning. Terrific.

94 points Gary Walsh winefront.com.au

From two sites within the parish of Watervale. 'Traditional' Clare Valley riesling winemaking, with inoculated yeast fermentation in stainless steel before clarifying and then bottling. That said, there's texture here, a gentle savouriness, too.