2023 Azienda Agricola Vie di Romans Pinot Grigio Dessimis, Friuli-Venezia

Bright orange-pink colour. Elegant bouquet, with notes of dried orange peel, lime and toasted hazelnut. Spreads silky over the palate, precise fruit alternates with juicy, fresh flavours until the long finish.

93 points Falstaff

Few producers have done more to elevate Pinot Grigio than Gianfranco Gallo and his family at Vie di Romans. Located in Mariano del Friuli, close to the Adriatic Sea, the estate has become one of Italy's benchmark white wine producers. Since taking over the family vineyards in the late 1970s, Gallo has pursued a relentless focus on quality, producing wines with remarkable concentration, texture and ageing potential. Dessimis has become one of the winery's most iconic wines, proving that Pinot Grigio can be every bit as serious and complex as the world's finest white wines.

The name Dessimis refers to the copper coloured berries of Pinot Grigio, and this wine embraces that character through extended skin contact, giving it additional texture, depth and a subtle blush hue. The vineyards sit on the gravelly alluvial soils of Friuli Isonzo, where warm days, cool nights and Adriatic influences create ideal conditions for slow, balanced ripening. Careful vineyard management and meticulous cellar work allow the variety to express itself with extraordinary detail and precision.

Pale copper gold in colour, the aromas are immediately captivating. White peach, ripe pear and apricot mingle with notes of orange peel, acacia blossom and Mediterranean herbs. As the wine opens, hints of spice, almond and wet stone emerge, adding layers of complexity. The palate is rich and beautifully textured, delivering flavours of stone fruits, citrus marmalade and baked apple supported by vibrant acidity. The extended skin contact contributes a gentle grip and savoury character, while a distinctive mineral thread carries the wine through a long, detailed finish.

This is a Pinot Grigio built for serious food. Pair it with grilled Moreton Bay bugs, lobster pasta, seared scallops, roast chicken with preserved lemon or a pumpkin and sage risotto. While already impressive in its youth, Dessimis will continue to evolve beautifully over the next eight to ten years, developing even greater complexity and nuance.