2023 Billy Button Bianco, Alpine Valley

A mélange of grapes that works well together, the bouquet faintly spicy/lychee, no doubt from the aromatic varieties, the palate firm, dry and intense, with a pleasing savouriness that has depth and lingers on well through a clean and appetising finish. 18 Jul 2024 Drink 2024–2031

91 points Huon Hooke therealreview.com

Billy Button Bianco from Victoria’s Alpine Valleys is a fresh, aromatic white blend that captures the spirit of both the mountains and winemaker Jo Marsh’s adventurous creativity. Jo is one of Australia’s most talented cool-climate winemakers, celebrated for her fearless blending and ability to express the vibrancy of the Alpine Valleys — a high-altitude region known for its pristine air, rocky soils and Mediterranean-style warmth tempered by crisp mountain nights. Her Bianco is part of the Wildflower collection, which celebrates bright, approachable wines brimming with personality and energy.

The Alpine Valleys’ diverse soils and elevations make it ideal for growing Italian white varieties, and Bianco is Jo Marsh’s playful nod to the field blends of northern Italy. The composition changes slightly each vintage but typically includes Pinot Gris, Vermentino, Fiano and Arneis, each contributing its own texture and aromatic nuance. The grapes are harvested early to retain acidity and freshness, then cool-fermented in stainless steel to preserve the purity of fruit and the bright, floral character that defines the wine.

In the glass, Billy Button Bianco shines pale straw with a green tinge. The nose is wonderfully expressive, bursting with pear, white peach, lemon blossom and hints of jasmine and crushed herbs. On the palate, it’s crisp and lively yet gently textured, offering flavours of apple, mandarin and nectarine framed by a mineral edge and refreshing acidity. The finish is long and clean, leaving a delicate note of citrus zest and alpine flowers. It’s joyful, aromatic and beautifully balanced, a perfect example of Jo Marsh’s skill at blending varieties that harmonise effortlessly.

This is the kind of wine that elevates a sunny afternoon. It pairs perfectly with grilled calamari, salt and pepper squid, prosciutto and melon, or light salads with citrus vinaigrette. It’s also ideal with fresh burrata, sushi or herbed chicken. Best enjoyed young for its bright fruit and aromatic lift, Billy Button Bianco is all about spontaneity, freshness and fun.