2023 Caroline Morey Chassagne Montrachet 1er Cru Caillerets, Burgundy

Note: from a .75 ha parcel of 35 to 40-year-old vines. Discreet wood sets off prominent petrol-suffused aromas laced with plenty of citrus zest, pear, apple and spice wisps. The delicious, vibrant and slightly denser medium-bodied flavors exude evident minerality on the youthfully austere, powerful and hugely long finale. This is clearly built-to-age yet it's not so compact that it couldn't be reasonably approached after only 4 to 5 years.

92-94 points Burghound Sweet Spot Outstanding!

Picked at the same time of the same day as Pierre-Yves Colin Morey’s holding of Caillerets. A clear green streak in the colour, and a beautifully stony bouquet. Wonderful delicacy without appearing in any way dilute. Drink from 2029-2035. Tasted Oct 2024.

92-95 points Jasper Morris MW Inside Burgundy

Caillerets sits high on the Puligny side of Chassagne Montrachet, where thinner limestone soils bring a finer, more linear expression than the broader, richer parts of the village. It’s a site known for tension and detail, and it aligns beautifully with Caroline Morey’s style. Since establishing her own domaine, she has built a reputation for wines that feel composed and transparent, allowing vineyard character to lead while keeping oak and extraction firmly in the background.

The 2023 opens with a lifted mix of lemon zest, white peach and crisp apple, layered with crushed stone, almond and a faint, smoky edge that slowly integrates with air. There’s a quiet intensity here, more about precision than weight. The palate is finely drawn, acidity giving the wine its shape and drive, while a gentle textural layer through the middle keeps it from feeling austere. It finishes long, saline and focused, very much in that Caillerets register.

This is right at home with seafood that keeps things clean and detailed. Think scallops just seared with a squeeze of citrus, sashimi, or a simple line caught fish with herbs and olive oil. It also works beautifully with lighter poultry dishes, especially where there’s a subtle jus or a touch of earthiness from mushrooms.

There’s plenty to enjoy now with a bit of air, but this will reward patience. Over the next 8 to 15 years it should build more depth and gentle nutty complexity while holding onto that fine mineral line.