2023 Chateau Des Quarts Pouilly-Fuisse, Maconnais Burgundy

Château des Quarts is one of the most exciting modern names in Pouilly Fuissé, a collaboration between Olivier Merlin and Dominique Lafon that brings together two of Burgundy’s most respected winemaking families. The estate focuses on exceptional limestone rich vineyards in the Mâconnais, farming with meticulous attention to terroir and producing Chardonnay that combines the generosity of southern Burgundy with the precision and mineral tension more often associated with the Côte d’Or. Even at village level, the wines carry remarkable depth and detail.

The 2023 Pouilly Fuissé is beautifully poised and expressive. Ripe white peach, lemon curd and nectarine aromas rise from the glass alongside hints of hazelnut, white flowers and crushed stone. There is an impressive concentration of fruit, though the wine remains vibrant and focused thanks to a bright line of acidity and chalky minerality running through the palate. Subtle oak and lees ageing bring texture and savoury complexity without overwhelming the purity of the fruit. The finish is long, saline and quietly powerful, lingering with citrus oil, almond meal and wet limestone.

This is white Burgundy that absolutely belongs at the table. Lobster with beurre blanc, grilled scallops or roast chicken with morels would all be sensational pairings. It would also shine beside creamy pasta with crab, baked cod with herbs or a simple wedge of aged comté enjoyed late into the evening. Given a little air, the wine slowly reveals more savoury and mineral detail, making it every bit as compelling as many far more expensive Burgundies.