2023 Christian Moreau Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru, Burgundy

Blended last week. A glowing lemon and lime colour. A complex and classy nose, with a little touch of coconut on top of the crushed oyster shells. Floral too but not honeyed. Good grip to this, with the requisite tension, the oak not fully blended in yet, making for a butterier finish. Drink from 2027-2036. Tasted Jun 2024.

92-95 points Jasper Morris MW insideburgundy.com

Christian Moreau Les Clos Chablis Grand Cru is a benchmark expression of Chablis at its most powerful and poised. Sourced from one of the region’s most revered sites, the Les Clos vineyard lies at the heart of the Chablis Grand Cru slope, facing south-west and blessed with perfect exposure and Kimmeridgian limestone soils that define the region’s unique mineral signature.

The Moreau family, led by winemaker Fabien Moreau, has deep roots in Chablis going back six generations. Their holdings in Les Clos include some of the oldest vines in the appellation, many over 50 years old. The winemaking is traditional and precise—hand harvesting, gentle pressing, wild fermentation and maturation in a mix of stainless steel and older oak barrels that enhance complexity without adding overt oak flavour.

The wine delivers a stunning aromatic profile of white peach, lemon zest, oyster shell and flint, with floral notes and subtle hints of hazelnut and sea spray. The palate is intensely structured yet refined, with bracing acidity cutting through layers of citrus, green apple and chalky minerality. There’s a saline, mouthwatering finish that seems to echo endlessly.

This is a wine built for fine dining and serious ageing. Pair with lobster in beurre blanc, pan-seared scallops with cauliflower purée, or chicken with truffle cream. It also sings with fresh oysters or aged Gruyère. Drink from release for energy and precision or cellar 10 to 15 years to unlock deeper complexity and texture.