2023 Christian Salmon Pouilly Fume Les Criots AC, Loire Valley

Christian Salmon Pouilly Fumé Les Criots AC from the Loire Valley is a wonderfully refined and smoke tinged expression of Sauvignon Blanc from one of Pouilly’s most respected family domaines. The Salmon family has been working these vineyards for six generations, and Les Criots is one of their most prized parcels, planted on classic Pouilly Fumé soils of flint, limestone and ancient clay. These silex rich slopes are the key to the wine’s signature character: purity of citrus and stone fruit wrapped in that delicate gunflint note unique to this side of the Loire. Cool nights, long ripening and meticulous farming allow the grapes to build intensity while retaining the razor bright acidity that defines the style.

Winemaking is intentionally restrained. Grapes are hand picked, gently pressed, cold settled and fermented at cool temperatures in stainless steel to preserve clarity and aromatic lift. Extended time on fine lees adds quiet depth and rounded texture without muting the mineral drive. The aim is always transparency: to bottle the landscape, not the winemaking.

The nose is expressive and finely chiselled. Lime zest, white grapefruit and green apple meet white peach, elderflower, citrus blossom and fresh herbs. Beneath the fruit lies the unmistakable Pouilly Fumé signature: flint, crushed stone, a wisp of smoke and cool river breeze. As it opens, hints of lemongrass, fennel, chalk dust and wet stone broaden the aromatic palette.

On the palate the wine is sleek, vibrant and beautifully balanced. Crisp citrus and orchard fruits glide over a lean, chalky frame, carried by electric acidity that keeps the wine taut from start to finish. Flavours of lemon, grapefruit peel, green apple, subtle passionfruit and white nectarine intertwine with saline minerality and a smoky, silex echo. The finish is long, pure and quietly savoury, leaving a lingering impression of citrus zest, herbs and flint. It will evolve gracefully over three to six years, developing soft honeyed and smoky nuance.

A brilliant match for oysters, scallops, grilled white fish, sushi, goat cheese, asparagus, citrus dressed salads, herby chicken dishes, ceviche and fresh spring vegetables. Serve well chilled to emphasise its precision and mineral freshness.