2023 Collector Summer Swarm Fiano, Canberra District

It would be completely understandable for a swarm of bees to be attracted to this as it’s full of honey characters – not sweet, but flavours such as honeycomb and beeswax. There’s ripe yellow peach, all manner of citrus infusions from Meyer lemon, grapefruit to tangy, lemony saline acidity throughout. It’s luscious, as there’s palate weight and a savoury overlay that makes this compelling and moreish.

95 points Special Value Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

Fiano is thought to have been the grape behind the Roman wine Apianum that was produced in the hills above Avellino in Campagnia, Italy. The wine was produced by a grape known to the Romans as vitis apiana, with the root of apiana being the Latin for bees.  Fiano is grown by Simon Robertson and team on deep red loam at Tumblong in the Gundagai region, and Peter Mullany and family on deep red granitic loam near Wombat in the Hilltops region.

Collector Summer Swarm Fiano from the Canberra District is a vibrant and textural white wine that highlights the potential of this Italian variety in Australia’s cool-climate regions. Collector Wines, founded by winemaker Alex McKay, is known for producing elegant, site-driven wines that reflect the distinct characteristics of the Canberra District. Sourced from select vineyards where the combination of warm days, cool nights, and granite-based soils enhances both ripeness and natural acidity, this Fiano is crafted with minimal intervention to preserve its freshness and complexity.

Pale straw in color, the wine offers a beautifully aromatic nose with layers of white peach, Meyer lemon, and wildflowers, complemented by subtle notes of honeycomb, almond, and wet stone. On the palate, Summer Swarm is lively and textural, with flavors of nectarine, preserved lemon, and a hint of dried herbs. A gentle waxy richness, characteristic of Fiano, is balanced by bright acidity and a distinctive mineral edge. The finish is crisp and refreshing, with lingering citrus zest and a touch of salinity.

This Fiano is a fantastic food wine, pairing effortlessly with grilled seafood, roast chicken, or fresh burrata with olive oil and basil. Its texture and acidity also make it a great match for lemon-infused risottos, zucchini fritters, and spicy Thai or Vietnamese dishes. Best enjoyed young for its vibrant fruit, it can also develop further depth over the next few years.