2023 Cobaw Ridge Pyrenees Syrah, Pyrenees

Complex and complete. A wonderful expression of the variety blending savouriness with fruit flavour. Starts with aromas of hot terracotta, warm bitumen, tapenade and plum essence. Flavours of fresh fruit, warm spices, cedary oak and some twiggy, Aussie bush characters come to the fore. Full bodied, rich and ripe but there’s a lightness within, it’s not weighty; plenty of textural, grainy tannins and a lovely fresh finish.

95 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com

Cobaw Ridge Pyrenees Syrah is one of the most distinctive and terroir-driven red wines in Victoria, expressing the elegance and restraint of cool-climate Syrah rather than the weight and heat often associated with Australian Shiraz. Produced by Alan and Nelly Cooper at their biodynamic estate in the Macedon Ranges foothills, this wine reflects the family’s philosophy of purity, balance, and respect for nature. It’s a Syrah that speaks of granite, altitude, and patience.

The vines sit on ancient granitic soils at about 610 metres above sea level, one of the highest vineyard sites in the Pyrenees region. These conditions, combined with organic and biodynamic practices, low yields, and dry farming, result in small, flavour-packed berries of great intensity and natural acidity. Fermentation occurs with wild yeasts in open vats, often including a portion of whole bunches for aromatic lift and fine tannin structure. The wine is then aged in seasoned French oak for around 18 months, allowing texture and complexity to build without overwhelming the fruit.

In the glass it shows deep garnet with violet highlights. The aroma is beautifully layered, featuring black cherry, blackberry, plum, and wild herbs, with notes of olive tapenade, cracked pepper, and smoke. The palate is medium bodied and seamless, offering savoury fruit purity and refined tannins supported by mineral freshness. It’s elegant, long, and quietly powerful — a Syrah that favours nuance over opulence.

It pairs beautifully with roast lamb, duck, venison, or earthy dishes such as mushroom ragout or truffle risotto. While graceful in youth, it will continue to evolve over 15 years, developing subtle game, spice, and forest-floor complexity.