2023 Craiglee Chardonnay, Sunbury

As usual, there’s plenty to enjoy with Craiglee chardonnay even if this is somewhat closed. It’s in a youthful stage and more time in bottle will ensure another layer of complexity. If you don’t want to wait, expect Meyer lemon, grapefruit pith and ginger spice. It feels almost pared back with seamless integrated oak and a soupçon of nutty lees. Savoury, textural and lively acidity throughout.

94 points Jane Faulkner winecompanion.com.au

The Craiglee Chardonnay from Sunbury is a refined, cool-climate white that showcases both the pedigree of this historic Victorian estate and the understated style of winemaker Patrick Carmody. Craiglee, established in the 1860s and replanted by Carmody in the 1970s, is one of Australia’s most remarkable small vineyards, best known for its age-worthy Shiraz and finely crafted Chardonnay. The vineyard’s basaltic soils and the cool, breezy climate of Sunbury give Chardonnay of purity, freshness and elegance, often with a subtle mineral edge.

In the glass, it is pale straw with green hues. The nose is delicate yet complex, offering white peach, nectarine and citrus blossom layered with cashew, flint and a touch of struck match. On the palate it is medium-bodied and finely textured, showing stone fruit and lemon curd balanced by bright acidity, subtle oak spice and a savoury mineral thread. The finish is long, taut and elegant, reflecting the quiet confidence of the Craiglee style.

Food pairings suit its finesse and subtle complexity: grilled scallops with lemon butter, roast chicken with tarragon, mushroom risotto, or soft cheeses like brie and triple cream styles. With 8 to 12 years of cellaring potential, it develops honeyed, nutty and toasty notes while retaining its citrus core and mineral drive.