2023 Croix & Courbet En Beaumont Savagnin Ouillé Côtes du Jura, Jura

En Beaumont is a highly regarded lieu dit of Château-Chalon, farmed by Courbet himself. The Savagnin vines were planted in 1962, 1985 and 1991 and are rooted in clay and limestone scree over blue and grey marl. This cuvée is raised in 500L casks for 12 months before a further six months in tank. It is labelled Côtes du Jura as the Château-Chalon AOC is only for Vin Jaune. This is equal in quality to the En Chemenot, but the style is quite different. Here you feel the clay more, with more opulence and flesh before the long, chalky, mineral close. Superb.

This Savagnin is made in the ouillé style, meaning the barrels are topped up regularly to prevent flor development, preserving freshness rather than embracing the traditional nutty oxidative character. Fermentation is natural and élevage is patient, building texture and depth while keeping the wine crystalline and precise. The aim is clarity and structure, a Savagnin that feels alpine and mineral rather than broad.

Pale gold in colour, the aromas open with lemon peel, green apple and white peach layered with almond, fennel and crushed stone. The palate is medium bodied and tightly coiled, with citrus and orchard fruit wrapped in bright acidity and a chalky, saline texture. Flavours stretch into a long, mineral finish that feels cool and linear with a subtle savoury undertone.

It pairs beautifully with Comté, roast chicken, creamy mushroom dishes and alpine cuisine. Already compelling for its tension and detail, it will cellar confidently for ten to fifteen years, gaining nutty and smoky nuance while retaining freshness.