2023 Dandelion Lioness of McLaren Vale Shiraz, McLaren Vale

From the foothills of McLaren Vale, planted to clay loam with fractured ironstone over Kurrajong Formation geology; 16 months in mainly older, though some new, French and American oak. A cool year but a robustly fruited wine, silky, supple and rich, with dark plum, crème de mûre, anise, black cherry and a ferruginous underpinning. Tannins are pithy, chewy and grippy, acidity peppy. This has a classic feel without being nostalgic, the drive and balance on point.

92 points Special Value Marcus Ellis winecompanion.com.au

Dandelion Lioness of McLaren Vale Shiraz is a bold, soulful expression of the region, but one that carries grace and detail alongside its power. McLaren Vale’s warm Mediterranean climate, tempered by coastal breezes from the Gulf St Vincent, allows Shiraz to reach full ripeness while retaining freshness. The vineyards sit on a patchwork of soils including sand, clay and ironstone, each contributing layers of flavour and texture to the final wine.

Dandelion Vineyards is led by Elena Brooks, a winemaker whose approach is rooted in respect for site, old vines and minimal intervention. The Lioness Shiraz is made from carefully selected McLaren Vale parcels, often including mature vines that bring concentration and natural balance. The name is both a nod to strength and a quiet tribute to the women who have shaped the region’s wine history.

In the glass, the wine is dark, plush and immediately engaging. Blackberry, black cherry and plum are layered with liquorice, dark chocolate and warm spice. With air, more savoury elements emerge. Black olive, smoked meat, earth and a hint of violet add complexity and depth. The palate is full bodied and generous, but not clumsy. Tannins are ripe and polished, acidity is well judged, and there is a flowing, velvety texture that carries the wine through a long, satisfying finish.

This is a wine made for hearty food and good company. It shines with slow roasted lamb, barbecued meats, rich stews or dishes with smoky or savoury elements. It is drinking beautifully now, but also has the structure to age comfortably for ten to fifteen years, developing more savoury, earthy and spice driven complexity over time. Dandelion Lioness of McLaren Vale Shiraz is confident, expressive and deeply regional, a wine that balances power with poise.