2023 Devotus Aprentis of Devotus Pinot Noir, Martinborough

Devotus Aprentis of Devotus Pinot Noir from Martinborough is an expressive, beautifully handcrafted Pinot shaped by one of the most singular small estates in New Zealand. Devotus is known for its tiny production, obsessive organic farming and a philosophy that prioritises soil health and vine balance above all else. The Aprentis bottling comes from younger vines on their prized North Run vineyard, planted on the classic Martinborough Terrace soils of free draining gravel, silt and ancient river stones. These deep alluvial layers give the wine its mineral pulse, fine tannins and a tension that counterbalances the natural generosity of Martinborough fruit.

The vineyard sits in one of the driest, windiest pockets of Wairarapa, conditions that naturally limit yields and concentrate flavour. Everything is done by hand: organic vineyard work, careful shoot thinning, low crops and precise picking decisions that chase ripeness without losing vibrancy. Aprentis is deliberately crafted to showcase the purity and energy of these younger vines rather than the darker, brooding power of the estate’s flagship Pinot.

The aromatics immediately signal Martinborough: red cherry, wild strawberry and raspberry, lifted by rose petals, thyme, soft spice and a whisper of warm earth. As the wine opens, layers of pomegranate, cranberry, orange zest and subtle savoury tones emerge, joined by a fine mineral thread from the gravel terrace soils. It is fragrant and detailed, with a youthful brightness that makes the bouquet feel alive.

On the palate the wine glides with silky texture and keen definition. Juicy red berries wrap around fine, chalk edged tannins and vivid acidity. Flavours of cherry, redcurrant, plum skin and gentle spice give way to earthy nuance, dried herbs and crushed stone. There is a lovely interplay between delicacy and structure, the lighter frame of young vines meeting the natural intensity of the site. The finish lingers with red fruit, florals and a quiet savoury note that hints at how this wine will evolve over the next five to seven years.

This style works seamlessly at the table: duck breast with berry glaze, roast chicken with herbs, mushroom tart, grilled salmon, charcuterie, soft cheeses, tomato based pastas or earthy vegetarian dishes. A slight chill brings out its vibrancy and perfume.